Edge spot progression "rules"? (1 Viewer)

DISCO CHIPS!!! the labels need to be glitter balls :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
Awesome idea for a label. Hahaha.
D024957E-FC20-44F6-B6FF-2F5BAAE08DF5.jpeg
 
I've thought about this a lot for my mixed set, and I do agree 100% with do what you like. That being said i think once you start putting chips together you'll start to decide what 'rules' matter most to you. For me it was sticking with some combo of 4 edge spots going from simple to more complex. Doubling up on 4d14 doesnt bother me. If you're going mixed set it's hard to not have to compromise to some degree

View attachment 543651
I really like the looks of these
 
Maverick: “I liked the Trimoons on my frac, there was no danger, I only created 2 racks”

Viper: “The rules of edgespot progression are for your chip’s safety and that of your set. They are not flexible, nor am I. Either obey them or you are history. Is that clear?”
 
Progression is so subjective, and honestly, I think it's an invention of chippers. How many casino racks actually have any kind of progressions? Not many, that I've noticed.
But if you're looking for opinions, I vote simpler to more complex (though, again, that's very subjective.)
Cough... cough... hey Mr. Rob, could you hold my beer sir.
20221118_145417 (002).jpg

Lol
 
Starting to look around for a frac and a 100 to fill my HSI set, and was curious what the consensus is for edge spot progression. Have found a some threads for a few years back, but wanted to see what the thinking is now.

Simpler to more complex?
Increasing number of spots?
Color progression?
Color pattern matching?

Think it'd be awesome to find a one-spot (114 or 112) blue frac, but then i've got no idea where to start for a primary 100...

As was already said... there are no "rules" per se.

Personally I try to adhere to some simple "guidelines":

- I won't duplicate a spot pattern in the same set. (I like variety)
- I won't have spot colors matching the base/spot colors of other chips they'll share the same table with. (helps avoid dirty stacks)
- I'll have simpler spots on lower denoms and more complex spots on higher denoms. (can help with cost assuming one needs more low denom chips)

GENERALLY, I follow these, but I've broken every one of them at one point or another.
 
I think sometimes your spot progression is simply what you can procure. It’s a bit easier now for some niches, but for the most part you have to make due for years with something until your ideal chip spot shows up in the quantity you need and at a time you can afford it and you are first to jump on it.
 
As was already said... there are no "rules" per se.

Personally I try to adhere to some simple "guidelines":

- I won't duplicate a spot pattern in the same set. (I like variety)
- I won't have spot colors matching the base/spot colors of other chips they'll share the same table with. (helps avoid dirty stacks)
- I'll have simpler spots on lower denoms and more complex spots on higher denoms. (can help with cost assuming one needs more low denom chips)

GENERALLY, I follow these, but I've broken every one of them at one point or another.

Okay. So if I read the above correctly, the one guideline you adhere to is there are no guidelines. Did I nail it?
 
As long as you can easily differentiate the chips in play (without looking at the inlay) is what ultimately matters.

Agree. This is the point.

The word “progression” seems to be the sticking point for some (not for me). So maybe we should call these spot schemes, or spot plans, or something else so the triggered commentators can get over it ;^)

An experienced player should be able to glance at some chips and know roughly what they are worth, without having to think too much about it.

So:

A smart spot scheme helps make chips readily identifiable—whether they are in a player’s stack, pushed forward as a bet, or mixed together in a messy pot.

A smart spot scheme might move from simple to complex, or small to large, or vice-versa. These are likely to avoid duplicating colors, spot sizes and patterns, among each other and/or the base colors, so that each denom is distinct.

By contrast a bad spot scheme causes confusion, typically through duplication of patterns, sizes and/or colors. It causes players to confuse denoms, miss high-value chips in a dirty stack, and make other unnecessary errors that cause disputes or just slow play down.
 
Agree. This is the point.

The word “progression” seems to be the sticking point for some (not for me). So maybe we should call these spot schemes, or spot plans, or something else…

I’d have to agree with this statement. The word ‘progression’ seems to be interpreted differently by many. I have always understood it to mean that as you progress from the lower to higher denoms, the spot design should also progress, e.g. change color, number, shape, and intricacy. For instance, fracs may have no, or one, spot (size may vary). Dollars may have 1-2 spots of different color/size than fracs. Snappers may have same number of spots as the dollars but with color & shape variations. Fives may have 3 spots with variations, and 25s with 3-4 spot variations, and so on and so on.
Obviously this isn’t the case as seen with many casino designs out there - this is just how I initially interpreted it once upon a time.
Whether or not you agree or disagree, I do believe that spot count (increasing or decreasing) should be a factor in “spot progression.”
 
All good points.

I guess the question is “what constitutes a progression”? The word implies some sort of methodical sequence. It doesn’t say that it needs to go up (few spots to more spots) or down, or simple to complex. Just progress in some logical way.

For example, the width of spots could be part of the progression, not just the number or complexity.

I guess objections come in when the sequence seems random. Say a set that had trimoon fracs, then 418 $1s, then a bearclaw $5, then 3D18 $25s, then a solid $100. It just feels arbitrary. It’s not intuitively obvious whether a given chip in the lineup should be worth more or less based just on the spots.

But this can easily happen when one is trying to assemble a set from chips that are scarce. I’ve been slowly assembling a cash set of spotted THCs, wanting only mint or near-mint chips. It’s challenging enough to get enough of each denom in quantity, while also trying to have the spots progress in some logical way that also fits the color scheme.
 
It’s challenging enough to get enough of each denom in quantity, while also trying to have the spots progress in some logical way that also fits the color scheme.

This is true. And especially difficult since the casinos themselves don't really adhere to any obviously "progressive" scheme. Most of them don't hire a designer to do anything outside of their inlay (and even then the results are often suspect).
 
Why, for that matter, do most casinos still use two color decks (red and black)? That’s just a leftover convention from a time when color printing was expensive. Adding a second color to a print job was twice the work; you had to clean and reink the press. Now, full color printing is the norm, so there’s no reason not to have four-color decks.
I disagree. If the dealer accidentally flashes the bottom card red/black is better than a 4-color deck.
 
I disagree. If the dealer accidentally flashes the bottom card red/black is better than a 4-color deck.

On every hand, the players need to correctly read their hand and the board.

The dealer is not supposed to ever flash cards.

In 1,000 hands, correct recognition of cards is essential all 1,000 times.

But you think it is more important to design cards to account for some sloppy dealer who flashes cards 1-3 times in those 1,000 hands (if anyone notices).

Oh.
 
Last edited:

Create an account or login to comment

You must be a member in order to leave a comment

Create account

Create an account and join our community. It's easy!

Log in

Already have an account? Log in here.

Back
Top Bottom