Dyeing the Bank -- the quest for a twelfth color (1 Viewer)

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I didn't see any other threads where china clay chips were dyed, so I posted a new one.

I'm planning a buying a set of Apache's the Bank chips, being really sold by the mold as much as anything else. My ideal set has 12 colors, though, and there are only 11 in the Bank, so I tried dyeing my sample set.

This is the set before the work (alongside some Majestics, as well), and my choice of dye (it's specifically designed for artificial fibers and some plastics). I also wanted to see if I could protect the edge spots, so I got some weatherproof tape:

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The instructions were to simmer the object being dyed for about an hour. I decided to to see if there were issues with the boiling process first. Since I know the black $100 chip was not going to be dyed, I simmered it for an hour. I taped over some of the edge spots to see what would happen. The tape melted into chip, so I gave up on that notion, but otherwise the chip was undamaged (in any way I noticed at that time. So, into the pot they went, except for the train chip (as both a control, because I want to keep it just as it is, and because it's the same as the .25). I did not take a picture of the pot boiling, but afterward, there were rings left on the bottom of my stainless steel pot.

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Also, I noticed later that the chips were scorched on the side touching the pot bottom. So, I will need to use a strainer of some sort when I dye the permanent set. Here are pictures of the top sides in different levels of light (indoor, evening window, full sunlight), except the grey in the second picture and the yellow in the third picture got reversed. The chips are organized in the same fashion as the first picture.

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These are the sides that were scorched because they were face down in the pot:

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As you can see, for almost all the chips, the true color is obvious in the white, lilac, red, orange, green, and both blues when the light brightens up. The yellows and the gray are much less obvious. The yellow in also seem to have gone from double-stripe edge spots to single-stripe edge spots, while the grey almost entirely loses the green edge spots, keeping the black. However, the most significant change it to the pink $50 chip, which has no trace of the pink left under even the brightest light, and even the edge spots are different colors, rather than disappearing. My daughter calls is a purplish-brown.

Meanwhile, my daughter got the Majestics, in an attempt to see if they can be colored by pastels. While the main chip body apparently can not, the edge spots can, so I gave her the yellow, grey, and pink chips (post-dyeing) to see what she thingks whe might be abler to do with the edges. Pictures will follow if anything comes of it.

One more thing I checked was to see what teh effects would be if a chip were nicked or damaged. The dye definitely goes below the surface level of the green chip.



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If anyone has any tips or suggestions, I would enjoy hearing them.
 

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I'm wondering if an oil based wood stain or universal pigment might be a better approach.

However, I've given a fair amount of thought to customizing chips in various ways, and I keep coming to the conclusion that a set of custom ceramics is a better option for me. I have some design ideas that lend themselves to the full graphic characteristic of ceramics. The cost of any option is likely to be questioned by my wife and maybe other family members. So, professional looking custom ceramics with a good "wow" factor (including highly personalized) will be a much less difficult "sell" than any off the shelf or relabeled set.
 
I'm wondering if an oil based wood stain or universal pigment might be a better approach.

However, I've given a fair amount of thought to customizing chips in various ways, and I keep coming to the conclusion that a set of custom ceramics is a better option for me. I have some design ideas that lend themselves to the full graphic characteristic of ceramics. The cost of any option is likely to be questioned by my wife and maybe other family members. So, professional looking custom ceramics with a good "wow" factor (including highly personalized) will be a much less difficult "sell" than any off the shelf or relabeled set.
You're possibly right on ceramics being a better choice, but that would be a big emotional swing for me.

My understanding is that the pastels my daughter is using are very close to being pure pigment. Is that what you meant by "universal pigment"?

I'll look into the wood stains. Interesting idea.
 
I'm fairly new here, and I have very little knowledge of chip maintenance. I suggest you look through the chip maintenance forum. I remember some threads about oiling chips. That's what lead me to the idea that an oil based stain might work.
 
Universal pigment is a color that can be added to a variety of things to deliver color. For example, oil based universal pigment can be added to oil based finishes such as paint or penetrating oil to either deliver that color or change the color of the finish. I believe some pigments are water based and some are oil based.

My use of the term pigment had nothing to do with pastels versus bright colors. Pigment is just color. To get a color that is not directly offered as a pigment, you would mix two or more together to get the desired color similar to printers using CMYK (cyan, magenta, yellow, and black) inks to get almost any color.
 
Universal pigment is a color that can be added to a variety of things to deliver color. For example, oil based universal pigment can be added to oil based finishes such as paint or penetrating oil to either deliver that color or change the color of the finish. I believe some pigments are water based and some are oil based.

My use of the term pigment had nothing to do with pastels versus bright colors. Pigment is just color. To get a color that is not directly offered as a pigment, you would mix two or more together to get the desired color similar to printers using CMYK (cyan, magenta, yellow, and black) inks to get almost any color.

Something I've learned in researching this: pastels are not just colors, they are also a medium for pigment delivery. You have soft chalk pastels, hard chalk pastels, oil pastels, etc. I thought it was confusing to use the same term.
 
Board gamers tend to prefer denser sets (denominationally) than poker players. In particular, I want a set I play 18xx and Acquire with.

For example, while it only had 9 colors, the 1830 chips @physics_squirrel ordered from CPC went 1-2-5-10-20-50-100, and most of the sets for board gamers on Kickstarter feature 1/2/5 or 1/3/5 patterns (for example, these).
 
maybe follow what these guys did to make fake chips that passed for new.

Tape up what you want to be the edge spot then spray paint the rest.

while not perfect they managed to fool people for a while.

 
Sounds like getting an oversized chip on a different mold (that is a different color already) or getting a plaque for that biggest denom is the way to go. I can't imagine being satisfied with any result that is going down this path.
 
I think starting with the white chip and testing different dyes for synthetic fabrics is your best choice. I’ve dyed some disc golf discs and found that while the locally available “idye poly” has a bunch of colors only the yellow-red range works well. Blue was more purple. Green was an awful brown.

another option used on discs is unscented worm dye (fishing product) but it’s a lot more challenging to use. It’s acetone based and evaporates quickly. However, bright fluorescent colors are available so it might be worth the effort to figure out.
 
I'd think using one of the other China clay chip lines would be a much better choice. That is of the different mold design isn't too off putting.

Using one of the royal chips (43mm) for larger denom might work.

Given your results, dyeing the chips just doesn't seem viable.
 
Sounds like getting an oversized chip on a different mold (that is a different color already) or getting a plaque for that biggest denom is the way to go. I can't imagine being satisfied with any result that is going down this path.
I already prefer the dyed 50 to using a different mold, but I'm not done with other options yet.
 
I think starting with the white chip and testing different dyes for synthetic fabrics is your best choice. I’ve dyed some disc golf discs and found that while the locally available “idye poly” has a bunch of colors only the yellow-red range works well. Blue was more purple. Green was an awful brown.

another option used on discs is unscented worm dye (fishing product) but it’s a lot more challenging to use. It’s acetone based and evaporates quickly. However, bright fluorescent colors are available so it might be worth the effort to figure out.
This led me down an interesting path, thank you. It turns out there is also something called vinyl dye I'm going to try. Results will be presented.
 
I'd think using one of the other China clay chip lines would be a much better choice. That is of the different mold design isn't too off putting.

Using one of the royal chips (43mm) for larger denom might work.

Given your results, dyeing the chips just doesn't seem viable.
I'm more committed to the mold and the feel than the appearance.
 
I was thinking this type chip would be much easier to dye. My plan is too make a roulette set and these only come in red blue and white but there are more whites than the other colors in the standard sets:
 

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