Do You Oil Hot-stamped Chips? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter thyechal
- Start date
LabMonkey
Flush
You can oil hot stamped chips, but just like inlayed chips a little oil goes a long way. Use it very lightly for great results ( and reduced drying times).
links_slayer
4 of a Kind
Mineral oil is fine to use on hotstamped chips. I'm not sure if it's been posted or linked here but there is a thread at CT that describes a method using a shoe polish sponge applicator. I've used this method in the past with great results.
Mental Nomad
Full House
I think hot-stamps benefit from oil more than inlaid chips, because there's more exposed "clay." It's the "clay," not the inlay, that takes on the oil into pores and loses a bit of the whitish, chalky sheen caused by light being scattered.
Hot stamps aren't hurt by the oil - the big risk is harsh cleaners. Don't use bleach or oxidizing cleaners on inlays.
Also, in case anyone cares, the oil doesn't actually "dry." There's no water in the oil, and oils don't evaporate.
Mineral oil never really dries; it seeps into the pores and fills gaps, but stays "oily." That's why you need to only use a little - over-oiling will just leave a film of oil on your chips, which may also lead them to pick up dirt easily. You can just wipe them down with rags after oiling, and a small bit of excess oil will "soak in" gradually. Over time, it will transfer (into people's fingers, the felt, or deeper into the chip), but it doesn't actually dry.
Linseed or canola oil, on the other hand, will "cure." They will actually turn hard. Again, technically, they don't "dry" because there's no evaporation involved - instead, in the presence of air, the oil will polymerize. What happens is that chains of oils are like threads, and where they are touching, they'll form cross-links. The cross-links require oxygen to form. So an open cup of oil can't polymerize, except for the very top layer, which can form a "skin." When you oil something with a "drying oil" like linseed, the thin film of oil on the surface will slowly polymerize in the presence of air. Once it polymerizes, it forms a dry, tough, rubbery coating on the surface. It's embedded into the surface of the chip, and you can't even see it, other than the same "oiling" effect you get from mineral oil. However, several coats of that kind of oil, each coat a day apart, will put a deep glass-like sheen onto a chip or a woodworking project. That's not what you want, and it would be hard to get off.
I've been happy with the results from mineral oil, and even from canola oil (sold in the grocery as "vegetable" or "salad" oil.) I think the canola-oiled chips stay clean better, but mineral oil is easier in the sense that you don't need to leave them out in the air to cure after oiling. Also, with mineral oil, you never have to worry about it building up - if there's too much, you just wipe them down. Layers of a "drying oil," on the other hand, might build up over time in the recesses and the mold marks, and will eventually just look like gunk. So if you plan to oil your chips often, don't use a drying oil.
When you wash your chips, the detergent will break down and remove oils. So the chips will have a 'dryer' look; depending on microscopic surface texture, they may even look white and chalky because of the way light refracts (think frosted glass.) Oiling after washing is, to me, a necessity.
So if you're the kind to wash and re-oil your chips often, you may lean towards mineral oil, to avoid build-up.
For a set that that won't get that kind of treatment, canola may actually work better. I feel like my Paulson Fun-Nite stayed clean longer after a canola oil treatment than after mineral oil.It's hard to tell, though, because I was playing them more after the mineral oil, and with different people.
Good luck with your chips!
Hot stamps aren't hurt by the oil - the big risk is harsh cleaners. Don't use bleach or oxidizing cleaners on inlays.
Also, in case anyone cares, the oil doesn't actually "dry." There's no water in the oil, and oils don't evaporate.
Mineral oil never really dries; it seeps into the pores and fills gaps, but stays "oily." That's why you need to only use a little - over-oiling will just leave a film of oil on your chips, which may also lead them to pick up dirt easily. You can just wipe them down with rags after oiling, and a small bit of excess oil will "soak in" gradually. Over time, it will transfer (into people's fingers, the felt, or deeper into the chip), but it doesn't actually dry.
Linseed or canola oil, on the other hand, will "cure." They will actually turn hard. Again, technically, they don't "dry" because there's no evaporation involved - instead, in the presence of air, the oil will polymerize. What happens is that chains of oils are like threads, and where they are touching, they'll form cross-links. The cross-links require oxygen to form. So an open cup of oil can't polymerize, except for the very top layer, which can form a "skin." When you oil something with a "drying oil" like linseed, the thin film of oil on the surface will slowly polymerize in the presence of air. Once it polymerizes, it forms a dry, tough, rubbery coating on the surface. It's embedded into the surface of the chip, and you can't even see it, other than the same "oiling" effect you get from mineral oil. However, several coats of that kind of oil, each coat a day apart, will put a deep glass-like sheen onto a chip or a woodworking project. That's not what you want, and it would be hard to get off.
I've been happy with the results from mineral oil, and even from canola oil (sold in the grocery as "vegetable" or "salad" oil.) I think the canola-oiled chips stay clean better, but mineral oil is easier in the sense that you don't need to leave them out in the air to cure after oiling. Also, with mineral oil, you never have to worry about it building up - if there's too much, you just wipe them down. Layers of a "drying oil," on the other hand, might build up over time in the recesses and the mold marks, and will eventually just look like gunk. So if you plan to oil your chips often, don't use a drying oil.
When you wash your chips, the detergent will break down and remove oils. So the chips will have a 'dryer' look; depending on microscopic surface texture, they may even look white and chalky because of the way light refracts (think frosted glass.) Oiling after washing is, to me, a necessity.
So if you're the kind to wash and re-oil your chips often, you may lean towards mineral oil, to avoid build-up.
For a set that that won't get that kind of treatment, canola may actually work better. I feel like my Paulson Fun-Nite stayed clean longer after a canola oil treatment than after mineral oil.It's hard to tell, though, because I was playing them more after the mineral oil, and with different people.
Good luck with your chips!
DrStrange
4 of a Kind
You don't have long term issues using a degradable vegetable oil? I never tested it, just went straight to the mineral oil.
DrStrange
DrStrange
links_slayer
4 of a Kind
Mineral oil =/= mineral spirits
atomiktoaster
Full House
Yeah, mineral oil doesn't really smell at all. Pretty sure you're thinking mineral spirits (avoid for chips).
DrStrange
4 of a Kind
My mineral oil is colorless, scentless and came from the local pharmacy. The common use? Laxative.
DrStrange
DrStrange
Mental Nomad
Full House
No problems at all. One thin coat polymerizes quickly, long before oxidative rancidity can get going, or microbial rancidity. Nearly odorless day one, completely odorless day two. Packed into storage on day three, never a problem. Seemed to leave a dirt-repellent finish, but my players aren't a problem, anyway.
Quicksilver-75
4 of a Kind
Do not use ANY organic oil. Your chips will begin to stink + everything stated earlier. Just use mineral oil from your pharmacy or grocer.
Andrew Marks
Two Pair
Isn't baby oil just scented mineral oil? I"m pretty sure it is. Go with mineral oil. No odor. Use very sparingly. What I do is put a small amount in my hand and rub my hand together and then pick up a bunch of chips at a time and let them slide throuhg my hands while rubbing. Definitely a more efficient way of doing it if you have to oil hundreds of chips as in a playable set.
links_slayer
4 of a Kind
Mental Nomad
Full House
J&J Baby Oil Gel:
"Mineral Oil, Hexyl Laurate, Hydrogenated Styrene/Isoprene Copolymer, Cyclopentasiloxane, Fragrance."
"Mineral Oil, Hexyl Laurate, Hydrogenated Styrene/Isoprene Copolymer, Cyclopentasiloxane, Fragrance."
alas, it must be said......
Nothing beats freshly-killed baby whale oil, best applied with a baby seal pelt (also freshly killed).
Barring that combination, go with straight mineral oil, no additives. Using organic oils is a recipe for disaster.
A cheap shoe polish applicator is by far the fastest way to oil a large group of chips at one time. Pour a small amount of oil in a shallow dish, dab the applicator to soak up some oil. Lay out the chips on a large bath towel, quickly dab each one (can do about 2-3 chips per second), flip all of the chips, then dab the B side. Wipe down each chip with a fresh clean cloth, laying them out on another large towel to air dry for a few hours (flip 1/2-way through). Rack 'em.
Nothing beats freshly-killed baby whale oil, best applied with a baby seal pelt (also freshly killed).
Barring that combination, go with straight mineral oil, no additives. Using organic oils is a recipe for disaster.
A cheap shoe polish applicator is by far the fastest way to oil a large group of chips at one time. Pour a small amount of oil in a shallow dish, dab the applicator to soak up some oil. Lay out the chips on a large bath towel, quickly dab each one (can do about 2-3 chips per second), flip all of the chips, then dab the B side. Wipe down each chip with a fresh clean cloth, laying them out on another large towel to air dry for a few hours (flip 1/2-way through). Rack 'em.
Do NOT use mineral SPIRITS, which is a refined petroleum product and will destroy chips.
Use mineral OIL, found in most pharmacies and sold as a mild laxative.
slisk250
Straight Flush
I use spirits and oil. I just need to remember to drink the spirits and not the other one.
AfterTheFact
4 of a Kind
Yes, yes I do oil hotstamped chips 
Just oiled some and they come out fabulous!
Kind of an older thread, but I wanted to touch on the easiest method I've found for oiling chips...
I've tried everything, oil soaked cloth, dauber, etc... The only method I will ever use again is to simply put a few tablespoons of min oil into a medium sized bowl of warm water. Then take a 2-3 barrels of chips (using a strainer) and dip them into the oil/water.. I slosh them around a bit, mix them up with my hands, then removed the chips. The watery oil will actually coat the chips entirely, and when you remove the chips, the oily residue/film will remain on the chips. I then use the strainer to shake off the excess water, then plop the chips onto a towel, where I spread them out, pat them dry, and start another batch of 40-60 chips. I can literally do a rack of chips in 2 minutes. You have to play around with the min oil to water ratio (not using too much oil), but the oil always seems to be evenly distributed on the chip, and looks as amazing as any other oiling method I've used.
Seriously, I can't see any reason not to use this technique... Other than with "Labeled" chips, where I'd never submerge them anyway.
I've tried everything, oil soaked cloth, dauber, etc... The only method I will ever use again is to simply put a few tablespoons of min oil into a medium sized bowl of warm water. Then take a 2-3 barrels of chips (using a strainer) and dip them into the oil/water.. I slosh them around a bit, mix them up with my hands, then removed the chips. The watery oil will actually coat the chips entirely, and when you remove the chips, the oily residue/film will remain on the chips. I then use the strainer to shake off the excess water, then plop the chips onto a towel, where I spread them out, pat them dry, and start another batch of 40-60 chips. I can literally do a rack of chips in 2 minutes. You have to play around with the min oil to water ratio (not using too much oil), but the oil always seems to be evenly distributed on the chip, and looks as amazing as any other oiling method I've used.
Seriously, I can't see any reason not to use this technique... Other than with "Labeled" chips, where I'd never submerge them anyway.
Weckedy
Flush
No adverse affects on chips with inlays? i.e. seepage under the inlay?
Paulson and ASM/CPC chips should be able to be submerged, so long as you're not using super hot water and harsh cleaners.
Oil won't negatively affect the inlays, since you're wiping off the excess when you pat dry the chips.
Oil won't negatively affect the inlays, since you're wiping off the excess when you pat dry the chips.
Weckedy
Flush
Sooo... What about TRKs? I ask because im thinking about using this method with my rounders, unless there are going to be problems ...
LabMonkey
Flush
I haven't used Weckedy's oil-in-water method on TRKs (or any other chips), but I have cleaned and oiled a lot of TRKs. I can't imagine a problem using the oil-in-water method provided the water is not too hot and you drain and dry promptly. I'm going to give this method a try the next time I need to oil a batch of chips.
Sounds like this is a great way to oil a 2000-chip set in a hurry. I have the oil, now I need to find a 2000-set to oil.
First, I can't imagine that a mineral oil and water mixture is going to either adequately or uniformly cover submerged chips with oil. The very nature of oil and water not mixing indicates this to be the case.
Secondly, submerging chips in any solution is always a risk. Paulson and BCC chips less so (due to how they are produced), but generally-speaking, ASM/CPC chips have less-secured inlays and some molds are somewhat prone to seepage under the inlay because of this (the inlays can also 'pop off' occasionally, for the same reasons).
The highest risk category for soaking damage are shaped inlays. Even Paulson chips with shaped inlays will typically show signs of seepage with relatively short soak times -- even more so with water than with straight mineral oil, due to the differing capillary action characteristics of each solution.
Secondly, submerging chips in any solution is always a risk. Paulson and BCC chips less so (due to how they are produced), but generally-speaking, ASM/CPC chips have less-secured inlays and some molds are somewhat prone to seepage under the inlay because of this (the inlays can also 'pop off' occasionally, for the same reasons).
The highest risk category for soaking damage are shaped inlays. Even Paulson chips with shaped inlays will typically show signs of seepage with relatively short soak times -- even more so with water than with straight mineral oil, due to the differing capillary action characteristics of each solution.
links_slayer
4 of a Kind
There are reports of oil/moisture seeping under inlays so I would proceed with caution if you are going to submerge them in anything. A mix of water and oil seems lol to me - I don't know how this can possibly work. Take the time to do it the tried and true way.
edit: BG beat me to it as I was typing.
edit: BG beat me to it as I was typing.
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