RowdyRawhide
Full House
I'm in for a set as well. Keep me posted as well
Thanks!
Thanks!
GB Completed COMPLETE *NO NEW ORDERS* - 3.5" x 5.75" Mixed Game Plaques on Plastic Card Stock Group Buy (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter power13
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davethesave
3 of a Kind
It if wasn't clear... I am in as well!
I was in the interest tread, but I missed the survey... anyway, I am still interested in buying it!
John Zoidberg
Pair
SeanGecko
4 of a Kind
davethesave
3 of a Kind
Whennnnn
Gang I have some work emergencies I've been dealing with that slowed my progress down from where I wanted to be. This is still happening, I have about 50% of the plaque designs drafted now, I appreciate everyone's patience.
davethesave
3 of a Kind
Sorry @power13 - I am sure I speak for everyone in saying how excited we all are about this!
Hope you are doing ok!
Thanks for the work putting this together, it is very much appreciated! I'm a little late to the party but would like to share a couple design comments, if this is the right place for such discussion:
- Scarney: I recommend using the 5-card Icelandic version as the default rules for the game card. With 5 cards per player, the game plays 8-max, rather than 6-max, which is better. Marsha's latest card version already has the note that if you discard to zero cards, then your hand is fouled (i.e., adds the risk of fouling when a player holds only one card going into last reveal, rather than having a player with the "nut low" of zero cards [appearing the same as a player that already folded their hand] + zero risk bombing the pot ad nauseum).
- Tahoe Pitch and Roll: This game is a staple at most PCF meetups, and is included on @k9dr 's 12-sided degen dice (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/degen-dice-giveaway.58271/). The game has enough nuance for folks not familiar with it that I think a card is merited. People understand that you get four cards to start (discarding one and rolling the other together with all the other players), but it also has a low card bring-in, is dealt Mississippi style (i.e., no betting between 4th + 5th street), and the last card is dealt face up. Note that the game card states 7 players max; however, you will run out of cards if all 7 players stay in the hand (8*7 = 56) so the final card is dealt face-up community style if that happens. I'd suggest noting the final community option in the game rules or picture:
- "I or (C)"
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A link to the first draft of the plaques is HERE
I used @inca911 's suggestions on which variant of Scarney to use. I have never played that game so will defer to the group on the preferred rules, but that all made sense. BTW I love me a crazy game but that one makes my head hurt!
Regarding Tahoe Pitch & Roll, that did not receive as many votes as the other games added to the deck during the poll. Also, it's the basically the same game as Stud Pineapple Style, which is included -- you just have to call that it's roll one (sometimes played that way in Super Stud as well). Mississippi is covered as well since that's the standard dealing procedure when stud is played big bet (I chose to lay out both dealing methods on the stud cards, let me know what you think). In terms of bring-in order and community card on 7th street, that is standard dealing procedure for all stud games so I have chosen to leave that stuff off the stud cards, in the same way I didn't put blinds procedure on the flop games. I addressed the thinking around separate cards for hi/lo and double-board variants earlier in the thread, but to remind everyone I am happy to share the digital files at the end of the GB if you would like to customize the plaques to your own preferences.
Obviously there are a lot of judgement calls that go into these rules as @abby99 has so wonderfully balanced in her game cards. I'm just trying to keep them from getting too cluttered and as user-friendly as possible. Of course open to feedback on layout, info to include/exclude, errors, typos, etc.
One other thing to note in case some of these look crowded in the middle but open at the borders: these are laid out within the templates that require edge area for color bleeds and cut. The actual cards will be smaller around the borders and this dead area will be smaller.
I used @inca911 's suggestions on which variant of Scarney to use. I have never played that game so will defer to the group on the preferred rules, but that all made sense. BTW I love me a crazy game but that one makes my head hurt!
Regarding Tahoe Pitch & Roll, that did not receive as many votes as the other games added to the deck during the poll. Also, it's the basically the same game as Stud Pineapple Style, which is included -- you just have to call that it's roll one (sometimes played that way in Super Stud as well). Mississippi is covered as well since that's the standard dealing procedure when stud is played big bet (I chose to lay out both dealing methods on the stud cards, let me know what you think). In terms of bring-in order and community card on 7th street, that is standard dealing procedure for all stud games so I have chosen to leave that stuff off the stud cards, in the same way I didn't put blinds procedure on the flop games. I addressed the thinking around separate cards for hi/lo and double-board variants earlier in the thread, but to remind everyone I am happy to share the digital files at the end of the GB if you would like to customize the plaques to your own preferences.
Obviously there are a lot of judgement calls that go into these rules as @abby99 has so wonderfully balanced in her game cards. I'm just trying to keep them from getting too cluttered and as user-friendly as possible. Of course open to feedback on layout, info to include/exclude, errors, typos, etc.
One other thing to note in case some of these look crowded in the middle but open at the borders: these are laid out within the templates that require edge area for color bleeds and cut. The actual cards will be smaller around the borders and this dead area will be smaller.
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Forty4
Full House
Scarney is tough to understand on paper but in practice it’s a very easy game to learn and so much fun to play.
While I disagree with the Icelandic rules, i understand but also see some other arguments, I won’t be bothered if it states them.
Pitch and Roll was a favorite of mine from the get go. Also brings up a similar point to above that can you tweak the rules so that games like drawmaha and draw2maha don’t need separate cards you can just make note that to be played as 2 max draw is 2 cards? I get that you want to have the face showing what game is being played but I’m seeing these more as cheat sheets for players in front of them. Similar notes for games that have a hi/lo variant just make a line saying if hi/lo best hand lower than 8 (probably needs wordsmiths for).
Nice work so far and appreciate the efforts, I have often thought of getting these made but didn’t know the best way to go about it.
While I disagree with the Icelandic rules, i understand but also see some other arguments, I won’t be bothered if it states them.
Pitch and Roll was a favorite of mine from the get go. Also brings up a similar point to above that can you tweak the rules so that games like drawmaha and draw2maha don’t need separate cards you can just make note that to be played as 2 max draw is 2 cards? I get that you want to have the face showing what game is being played but I’m seeing these more as cheat sheets for players in front of them. Similar notes for games that have a hi/lo variant just make a line saying if hi/lo best hand lower than 8 (probably needs wordsmiths for).
Nice work so far and appreciate the efforts, I have often thought of getting these made but didn’t know the best way to go about it.
Missing NLHE. Haha, Is this serious ?
I guess I'm saying, you absolutely have to have separate cards for NLHE & LHE. They are both in the WSOP 10 game mix for petes sake.
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Uhh it's pg 17. Not doing separate cards for limit and big bet of the various games.
You need separate plaques. If you've ever played in a mix game, you can't shuffle plaques around for limit/ no limit.
This was discussed earlier in the thread, and separate cards for lhe and nlhe (and for Omaha and plo) were part of the poll for games to add, but they didn’t get close to the votes of many other games. The mixes I play are all limit or all big bet, but it would be an issue for mixes with both. But the poll results showed most people preferred other games, otherwise I’d have separated them.
The people have spoken. I will say, imho, it is a mistake. In any tourney format of 8,9,10,12 game format both NLHE & LHE are separate games. Shuffling cards will not work. But again, the people have spoken. GL !
I will send you my holdem card and you’ll be good. We never play it anyway!
Seems like there should be another name for these... Maybe game cards? Because I forget that I'm subbed to this thread and every time I see "plaques" in my feed, well, I think of plaques!
Your sentiment is awesome & thank you!I will send you my holdem card and you’ll be good. We never play it anyway!
Natskule
3 of a Kind
Never played Badugi, but can you draw 5 cards with a 4 card hand? Wasn't sure, thought it might be a typo.
Interested. I have never been able to get my group to play anything besides THE. It’s infuriating. Maybe if they can see the possibilities they would be more open to the idea of mixing it up.
Updated draft of the mixed game plaque designs is HERE
There are primarily small tweaks and typo corrections. I would really appreciate it if some folks would volunteer to do give these a hard proof read before going forward with the order so we don't discover anything after it's too late. In particular, these are the kinds of things I could use more eyes on (it's hard to catch your own errors sometimes):
* Typos, inconsistencies across cards, formatting errors
* Number of players: each game matches @abby99 's game cards. However, some games are pretty close to allowing another player by not burning the river, for example, and I think in practice some games will deal in one more player than is listed. In the same way that stud can't strictly deal 8 full hands without a community river from time to time. I just want to be sure we are using the consensus number of players
* Fixed limit / big bet: in laying this out I think other than with a handful of draw games, and if you accept that you can play stud Mississipi style, you can play almost all games either FL or NL/PL. Is this even worth showing?
* Stud games: what does everyone feel about showing the standard and Mississipi formats on each card? It is a bit busy. The alternative would to ditch that and show stud as FL only, which reduces the versatility of these cards and might make it less useful for folks who play big bet in home games. The argument against would be purists who say stud is a fixed limit game structurally. The counter-argument is that the 75% of games in here which are spread in casinos are almost never played big bet either.
* Rules: these default to Abby's dealing rules, but there were a few discussions up the chain about interpretations, etc. Some of these games are so new that there isn't a totally "definitive" set of rules, or they are played with different rules in different parts of the world (eg 66 vs 99 qualifier in Archie, draw 1 up card with option to discard for another down in Dramaha as played in EU, or even how to spell the name of the game!). But if there is a discussion about the "best" way to play any of these games now is the time!
ps I take the point about questioning the need for a separate card for Draw2maha, which could just be dealt with in a note on number of players as I did in the other Dramaha variants. We've seen arguments for Tahoe P&R and NLHE to have separate cards subsequent to the poll closing, and Cincinnati tied with Showmaha for the last game slot. I'm not sure I can edit this thread to include a poll - but without re-opening the whole process here, we can use this tread to finalize this last card decision: Tahoe P&R, NLHE, Cincinnati, or keep Draw2maha. HOWEVER, if you're going to weigh in on this last point I would request that you please also do a proof read of the document above and provide any comments as well! (EDIT: I CAN IN FACT ADD A POLL FOR THIS, SO I DID. BUT PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE PROOF READ THE DOCUMENT!!)
I think we are close here. If we can finalize the designs we should be able to start the order process this week!
There are primarily small tweaks and typo corrections. I would really appreciate it if some folks would volunteer to do give these a hard proof read before going forward with the order so we don't discover anything after it's too late. In particular, these are the kinds of things I could use more eyes on (it's hard to catch your own errors sometimes):
* Typos, inconsistencies across cards, formatting errors
* Number of players: each game matches @abby99 's game cards. However, some games are pretty close to allowing another player by not burning the river, for example, and I think in practice some games will deal in one more player than is listed. In the same way that stud can't strictly deal 8 full hands without a community river from time to time. I just want to be sure we are using the consensus number of players
* Fixed limit / big bet: in laying this out I think other than with a handful of draw games, and if you accept that you can play stud Mississipi style, you can play almost all games either FL or NL/PL. Is this even worth showing?
* Stud games: what does everyone feel about showing the standard and Mississipi formats on each card? It is a bit busy. The alternative would to ditch that and show stud as FL only, which reduces the versatility of these cards and might make it less useful for folks who play big bet in home games. The argument against would be purists who say stud is a fixed limit game structurally. The counter-argument is that the 75% of games in here which are spread in casinos are almost never played big bet either.
* Rules: these default to Abby's dealing rules, but there were a few discussions up the chain about interpretations, etc. Some of these games are so new that there isn't a totally "definitive" set of rules, or they are played with different rules in different parts of the world (eg 66 vs 99 qualifier in Archie, draw 1 up card with option to discard for another down in Dramaha as played in EU, or even how to spell the name of the game!). But if there is a discussion about the "best" way to play any of these games now is the time!
ps I take the point about questioning the need for a separate card for Draw2maha, which could just be dealt with in a note on number of players as I did in the other Dramaha variants. We've seen arguments for Tahoe P&R and NLHE to have separate cards subsequent to the poll closing, and Cincinnati tied with Showmaha for the last game slot. I'm not sure I can edit this thread to include a poll - but without re-opening the whole process here, we can use this tread to finalize this last card decision: Tahoe P&R, NLHE, Cincinnati, or keep Draw2maha. HOWEVER, if you're going to weigh in on this last point I would request that you please also do a proof read of the document above and provide any comments as well! (EDIT: I CAN IN FACT ADD A POLL FOR THIS, SO I DID. BUT PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE PROOF READ THE DOCUMENT!!)
I think we are close here. If we can finalize the designs we should be able to start the order process this week!
Grimace
Full House
I’m in for a set.
I like these. I’m likely in as well.
My thoughts on your questions + from review of the game cards. Take/leave as you see fit (except the Scarney fix)! Will be getting a set or two no matter what, thanks.
- I don't feel that Fixed Limit / Big Bet needs to be shown. That's more of a preference. Similarly unnecessary are separate cards for Limit HE vs. NLHE. Betting structure is generally obvious from the chips in front of you (i.e., a Limit game often has a different set). Most people host a limit game as a separate event/table. When Limit + Big Bet are combined, often the Big Bet total amount is capped (e.g., $100 cap per hand) as a hybrid structure.
- I don't see a need for Standard + Mississippi to be shown. It is very busy.
- Recommend dropping the quotation marks for "ARCHIE"
- Pineapple discards are typically "on your action" to speed up game play, but being silent to the point is OK. "On your action" eliminates the possibility of angle shooting, which is good for everyone.
- Crazy Pineapple Hi/Low card's game title side might be clearer as "Crazy Pineapple 8". Same with "Omaha 8" and "Scrotum 8". The words "Hi/Low 8 or better" are rarely spoken.
- Implocean card states "Two card turn". "Turn + River dealt simultaneously" would be more accurate (i.e., else there is no "Ocean" after the River).
- I haven't played or even seen Showmaha played at any meetup.
- For me I don't see much of a need to have a separate card for a Double Board game. There is essentially no scenario where a player would act differently preflop thinking a game was single when it was really double. The flop makes things clear very quickly, unless the entire table forgets what was initially called to be played. In that case, it really doesn't matter. I've seen the wrong game played and the pot awarded, with the table recognizing the error only afterwards.
- Scarney needs fixing. The pot is awarded on the high hand to the best hand using ANY number of cards remaining in the player's hand. NOT 2 from hand and 3 community.
- DraWmaha emphasizes the DRAW nature of the game more to me than Dramaha. Not going to die on that hill either way. You could just note "DRAW" in the game card picture (i.e., like Shodugi), and note in the text below the pic: "Draw up to 2 in Draw2maha, Draw up to 5 in regular". There is space to add that and we can gain a card.
- Suggest changing the Drawmaha 2-7 Lowball title card to match the game logistics title of "2-7 Drawmaha" Same with 49.
- Shodugi. Clarify draw is to Badugi. For example, "DRAW (badugi)" on the current "DRAW" card image. I've seen this attempted to be misinterpreted to allow players to draw to HE (or even to both sides!). Alternatively clarify in the game rules text.
- Related to the Shodugi comment, you could drop the "After individual cards are dealt" language on many game cards to gain space. Rather than dropping it completely (if there is concern) you could use "After the/first/initial deal" instead, if you feel a need to explain. The picture instructions are more than adequate. Comment applies to Shodugi, SOHE, SHESHE
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Thanks for the feedback, will take it under consideration. For the nomenclature on the front of the card, this entire project started inspired by the Wynn's mixed game plaques so the front conforms with their cards where applicable.
moose
4 of a Kind
Tahoe pitch and roll needs to be there. I missed the secondary poll because I had already answered the primary poll and it should have been run in a separate thread.
+100 on any 'double board' cards. Not necessary.
+100 on any 'double board' cards. Not necessary.
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