Custom Design from Classic Poker Chips

TKEUofM

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I know it's a Michigan set, but I'm picking up a little too much blue.
Yeah, couldn’t decide on the $0.25 chip so I defaulted to blue. And the $5k would probably never see play. Just wanted to have it for fun.

But I wanted to keep all the edge spots maize and blue as a design feature.
 

TKEUofM

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Thanks for all the feedback. Gonna keep building this out, gonna be a life long set passed down to the kids and will take some time to save up for it since I also just ordered a Rounders set. I feel like it’s one that I keep tweaking but will take forever to actually order.
 

GianThaMan

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Thanks for all the feedback. Gonna keep building this out, gonna be a life long set passed down to the kids and will take some time to save up for it since I also just ordered a Rounders set. I feel like it’s one that I keep tweaking but will take forever to actually order.
Do you have color and mold samples? You should definitely feel and see everything if it's a lifetime set.
 

GianThaMan

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Also, although this is 100% opinion, I would use brighter and more contrasting colors. I know some people prefer darker, muted themes but IMO, bright colors look awesome.
 

TKEUofM

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Do you have color and mold samples? You should definitely feel and see everything if it's a lifetime set.
I have a Rounders CSQ sample set and an Atlantic Club A mold sample set.

Both have been heavily shuffled over the last 3 months while I’ve been working from home.... lol
 

GianThaMan

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I have a Rounders CSQ sample set and an Atlantic Club A mold sample set.

Both have been heavily shuffled over the last 3 months while I’ve been working from home.... lol
You should buy one of the mold samples and one of the color samples they offer. It's like $23 to feel one chip of every mold, and a color sample is like $70 I think, and it lets you see every color in person, which is really helpful.
 

TKEUofM

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Made some more revisions..... changed the $1 from white to Yellow and updated some edge spots.

Fire away on the feedback.... just be nice. :)

1595970703574.png
 

LeGold

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Nice, but I smell some dirty stacks with so many similar colors so close to each other.
 

Coyote

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We have 21-27 players. Usually a $1,500 starting stack for tournaments. I probably wouldn’t even need the $1k or $5k, I just threw them on there for fun since it would be a custom order.

I have another cash set for tournament nights so I wouldn’t put the same set into play for both. Cash games are usually $0.25/$0.50 but sometimes go up to $0.50/$1 by the end of the night.

Also wanted to order a big set as I have two sons that I would like to pass them down so I would want to be able to split it up. This would be a set that I never sell and wouldn’t want to worry about adding on later.
First of all congrats for making the right decision, which is to make a custom CPC set.
It's the rational and stress-free way of getting what YOU want (having shaped an informed opinion before, though) in the end.
CPCs can even be cheaper than mint Paulson THCs, especially "NAGB" chips, for which you may have to pray and wait to come up for sale, mostly at absurd prices.
CPC Quality and customer service are exemplary.

With "21 to 27" players, using the same chips for cash and tourney is just out of the question for game security, even if tourney and cash are not played simultaneously or successively under the same roof. It could marginally be done, IMO, with up to 8-9 players max, assuming they 're family and decades-tested friends (how many of them can one have?). NOT in 3-table games.
So, you 're going to need two sets, one for each son:)
[A possible way to make ends meet: if you use the denominations as cents for cash games, and your tourney buy-in corresponds to as many cents as the T units, i.e. a T5-based T2,000 tourney costing $20 to play in, or a T25-based T10,000 tourney costing $100 to play in. Still, not sure this is truly safe, if add-ons are offered at discount prices etc].

Take your time and do not rush. Spend endless hours in the Gallery and Pr0n sections, as well as on the CPC design tool. Change your mind several times, take some distance and sleep a lot on each idea.
Needless to say I presume you have the CPC color sample, 'cause designing CPCs without the full CPC color chart sample of 38 chips in your hands would be a huge risk and a folly. I would also recommend mold samples, unless you 're fixed (pitty there's no M mold:D)

Using the very same spot (or even just spot colors) on every chip poses some difficulties design-wise, but might spare you from other ones.
You could have the same edge-spot style on every chip for the tourney set (but not in the same colors) and a progression of edge-spot styles for the cash set, probably using the same colors for the spots.

Label-wise, my preference is 1in, to accommodate detail, or to possibly forgive amateur inexperience if you 're not using a professional.
Bear in mind, though, that the best sounding molds are the ones which, other than having two concentric circles, also accept the minimum-sized (7/8in) inlays, while molds accepting the largest labels (and the largest, ie 1&1/16in labels themselves) can make the chip very nice pictorially but less exciting shuffling-sound-wise.

Don't hesitate to ask more questions.:)
 

GianThaMan

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First of all congrats for making the right decision, which is to make a custom CPC set.
It's the rational and stress-free way of getting what YOU want (having shaped an informed opinion before, though) in the end.
CPCs can even be cheaper than mint Paulson THCs, especially "NAGB" chips, for which you may have to pray and wait to come up for sale, mostly at absurd prices.
CPC Quality and customer service are exemplary.

With "21 to 27" players, using the same chips for cash and tourney is just out of the question for game security, even if tourney and cash are not played simultaneously or successively under the same roof. It could marginally be done, IMO, with up to 8-9 players max, assuming they 're family and decades-tested friends (how many of them can one have?). NOT in 3-table games.
So, you 're going to need two sets, one for each son:)
[A possible way to make ends meet: if you use the denominations as cents for cash games, and your tourney buy-in corresponds to as many cents as the T units, i.e. a T5-based T2,000 tourney costing $20 to play in, or a T25-based T10,000 tourney costing $100 to play in. Still, not sure this is truly safe, if add-ons are offered at discount prices etc].

Take your time and do not rush. Spend endless hours in the Gallery and Pr0n sections, as well as on the CPC design tool. Change your mind several times, take some distance and sleep a lot on each idea.
Needless to say I presume you have the CPC color sample, 'cause designing CPCs without the full CPC color chart sample of 38 chips in your hands would be a huge risk and a folly. I would also recommend mold samples, unless you 're fixed (pitty there's no M mold:D)

Using the very same spot (or even just spot colors) on every chip poses some difficulties design-wise, but might spare you from other ones.
You could have the same edge-spot style on every chip for the tourney set (but not in the same colors) and a progression of edge-spot styles for the cash set, probably using the same colors for the spots.

Label-wise, my preference is 1in, to accommodate detail, or to possibly forgive amateur inexperience if you 're not using a professional.
Bear in mind, though, that the best sounding molds are the ones which, other than having two concentric circles, also accept the minimum-sized (7/8in) inlays, while molds accepting the largest labels (and the largest, ie 1&1/16in labels themselves) can make the chip very nice pictorially but less exciting shuffling-sound-wise.

Don't hesitate to ask more questions.:)
To avoid the security issue, make the cash part 25c/1/5/20, and the tourney 25/100/500/1000/5000. That way there’s no inter-mixing of denoms.
 

AnteAndy

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To avoid the security issue, make the cash part 25c/1/5/20, and the tourney 25/100/500/1000/5000. That way there’s no inter-mixing of denoms.
That or just make his tourney set a T100 base. I like doing $25s for my cash set just to help inflate the bank more.
 

TKEUofM

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First of all congrats for making the right decision, which is to make a custom CPC set.
It's the rational and stress-free way of getting what YOU want (having shaped an informed opinion before, though) in the end.
CPCs can even be cheaper than mint Paulson THCs, especially "NAGB" chips, for which you may have to pray and wait to come up for sale, mostly at absurd prices.
CPC Quality and customer service are exemplary.

With "21 to 27" players, using the same chips for cash and tourney is just out of the question for game security, even if tourney and cash are not played simultaneously or successively under the same roof. It could marginally be done, IMO, with up to 8-9 players max, assuming they 're family and decades-tested friends (how many of them can one have?). NOT in 3-table games.
So, you 're going to need two sets, one for each son:)
[A possible way to make ends meet: if you use the denominations as cents for cash games, and your tourney buy-in corresponds to as many cents as the T units, i.e. a T5-based T2,000 tourney costing $20 to play in, or a T25-based T10,000 tourney costing $100 to play in. Still, not sure this is truly safe, if add-ons are offered at discount prices etc].

Take your time and do not rush. Spend endless hours in the Gallery and Pr0n sections, as well as on the CPC design tool. Change your mind several times, take some distance and sleep a lot on each idea.
Needless to say I presume you have the CPC color sample, 'cause designing CPCs without the full CPC color chart sample of 38 chips in your hands would be a huge risk and a folly. I would also recommend mold samples, unless you 're fixed (pitty there's no M mold:D)

Using the very same spot (or even just spot colors) on every chip poses some difficulties design-wise, but might spare you from other ones.
You could have the same edge-spot style on every chip for the tourney set (but not in the same colors) and a progression of edge-spot styles for the cash set, probably using the same colors for the spots.

Label-wise, my preference is 1in, to accommodate detail, or to possibly forgive amateur inexperience if you 're not using a professional.
Bear in mind, though, that the best sounding molds are the ones which, other than having two concentric circles, also accept the minimum-sized (7/8in) inlays, while molds accepting the largest labels (and the largest, ie 1&1/16in labels themselves) can make the chip very nice pictorially but less exciting shuffling-sound-wise.

Don't hesitate to ask more questions.:)

Thanks for the awesome response!!! I’ve gone through about 15 revisions so far. Also trying to balance cost and not get to crazy with the higher cost edge spots. I’m sure I’ll go through 10 more updates.

I have a set of Rounders CSQ that I just got and a few A Mold samples to check out the different looks and feels. I do need to order the color samples though to make sure I’m happy with that aspect.

Our game has been running for over 15 years and there are about 15 players who have been around that whole time. Another 5-10 have been playing for 5-10 years and there are a handful of “new” guys playing for a few years. Only way to get into the game is to have someone vouch for you. So far we haven’t had any issues but I’ve always had a second set for cash. I have Majestics for cash right now and also have a Paulson Classics set for Tourney rotation. Since this set would be my “legacy” set I would only use it for special occasions. But I do see how issues could arise using a full set for cash and tourney, thanks for all that info.
 
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