Custom Design from Classic Poker Chips

TKEUofM

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So I'm bored out of my mind and have been doing a lot of chip research. Watched Rounders the other day and looked up buying a set of those chips. Stumbled upon the custom chip designer tool at Classic Poker Chips. I'm from SE Michigan and am a huge UofM fan and designed a set. Considering ordering a set but not sure if I want to spend that much money. Anyways, here is the design that I came up with.

Let me know what you guys think. Any suggestions? (and I'm sure the Ohio State fans will tell me to remove the M....lol)

For those that have ordered customs through Classic Chips, are you happy with the result?

Michigan Chip Set.png
 

Josh Kifer

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Mods, can we ban this guy.....

Kidding. Kinda. Go Ohio.

Now, let's get to the important stuff. I think your going to have a hard time keeping those spots across each chip and make each chip work. It works well with certain chips (like, I can dig the 1k), but clashes like no other on others (the 5k just isn't clicking, IMO)

The way to get around this is to have a single chip that is a flag bearer for this set. Make one chip the ONE that screams Michigan. Again, just advise. It's worth about as much as you paid for it. Nothing!
 

TKEUofM

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Yeah, I was hoping to be able to keep the Maize and Blue theme going across each chip with the edge spots. I really like the $100 and $1,000. Unsure about the others. This was first cut and I saved everything on their site so I can go back and edit easily.

What color edge spots do you think would flow best with the other colors?
 

AnteAndy

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I actually like the 5K since Orange and Blue are complementary colors, especially with the Orange value being brighter, and the Blue's being darker. The Yellow egdespot on the Orange 5K doesn't blend much with the orange so that shouldn't be an issue. However the Blue edgespot seems to blend into the 500 chip with it's Blurple color. And possibly the 100.

But if you do some tweaking like the 100 being more Charcoal and the Blurple 500 more light Purple, having the same edgespots & colors for it would work for all of the chips.
 
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ff1228

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Just putting it out there if you want to opt for an actual rounders set over customs that I have some currently for sale that could start your set
 

AnteAndy

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Made some more tweaks, made variations to the edge spots and upgraded the inlay. Thoughts?

View attachment 442264
Great improvement with the different edgespots and still keeping the colors you want for them. Still curious if you were to make the 100 base Charcoal, just making the Black lighter in general. But still comes out great overall. Also like you doing more with the inlay imprint.
 

BPTDirector

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To answer another part of your post. Chips from CPC are worth every penny you’ll spend. Heirloom quality. Take your time with design and listen to tips from members here. The results will stagger you with their brilliance.
 

Quicksilver-75

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There is a bigger issue with your artwork. It needs to adhere to strict guidelines for production. Visit classics webpage. In the inlay section of their custom chips link, you will find templates. You can download the one that best fits your software. The textual limit is key. You can’t have text beyond that line in order to allow the plotting and cutting process which can be off from time to time.
 

TKEUofM

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There is a bigger issue with your artwork. It needs to adhere to strict guidelines for production. Visit classics webpage. In the inlay section of their custom chips link, you will find templates. You can download the one that best fits your software. The textual limit is key. You can’t have text beyond that line in order to allow the plotting and cutting process which can be off from time to time.

Thanks for the heads up on that. I'm just beginning the process and getting ideas on good combos etc. I'll get in touch with them and ask for their feedback on the inlay once I get a little closer to order time. Still trying to figure out if I can pull this off without my wife killing me. :)
 

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First: Go Blue!

Second: Welcome.

CPC: CPC does fantastic work, so you're in good hands there. Yes, they are expensive, but they are the only game in town if you want custom, "clay" chips. I think they are totally worth it and I don't know that you'll get much push back on that from anyone who has a set. The CirSqr mold is particularly excellent.

Your design: I much prefer your first draft, as opposed to the tweaked version from post #8. The more edge spot color you have, the more washed out the primary color will be and this is not my personal preference. Also, while I think you're good, you have to be mindful of how hard it could be to tell the chips apart in a splashed pot, etc. The lighter purple $500 is a good step. Having the consistent edge spot/colors, as in the OP, is fine, and I actually found it visually appealing, initially, as one or both of the colors work for me on the base chip colors you've chosen. It just makes the chips not as dynamic or singular, which isn't your point, as you're trying to keep the theme, which I dig. Ultimately, do what you want for yourself. This is your set that you'll own the rest of your life and pass on to someone you know. Take in the advice here (it will save you money and heartache, guaranteed) but ultimately do your own thing with your design.

Oh, I presume this is a tournament set with the $5 as your T5 starting chip?
 

BNM

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There is a bigger issue with your artwork. It needs to adhere to strict guidelines for production. Visit classics webpage. In the inlay section of their custom chips link, you will find templates. You can download the one that best fits your software. The textual limit is key. You can’t have text beyond that line in order to allow the plotting and cutting process which can be off from time to time.

CirSqr can take up to the 1" inlay, though, and it looks like he's only mocking up with the 3/4 so he should be fine, no?
 

Quicksilver-75

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Thanks for the heads up on that. I'm just beginning the process and getting ideas on good combos etc. I'll get in touch with them and ask for their feedback on the inlay once I get a little closer to order time. Still trying to figure out if I can pull this off without my wife killing me. :)
Understood. It’s always best to work within your confines rather then settling on something you really like and have to change it to fit. Usually ends up meaning smaller, less legible print or images. Looks great though. Prepare to make many samples available. There are tons of NCAA athletics junkies in your part. :p
As for the wife? I can’t help you there. They always find out...
 

Quicksilver-75

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CirSqr can take up to the 1" inlay, though, and it looks like he's only mocking up with the 3/4 so he should be fine, no?
Just looking at it as is? Maybe. The chiptool will automatically scale everything up or down. If he selected the 1” the text would also scale up and as it sits right now is closer to a production finished-cut inlay. He’ll still need to scale it back a bit.
 
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TKEUofM

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First: Go Blue!

Second: Welcome.

CPC: CPC does fantastic work, so you're in good hands there. Yes, they are expensive, but they are the only game in town if you want custom, "clay" chips. I think they are totally worth it and I don't know that you'll get much push back on that from anyone who has a set. The CirSqr mold is particularly excellent.

Your design: I much prefer your first draft, as opposed to the tweaked version from post #8. The more edge spot color you have, the more washed out the primary color will be and this is not my personal preference. Also, while I think you're good, you have to be mindful of how hard it could be to tell the chips apart in a splashed pot, etc. The lighter purple $500 is a good step. Having the consistent edge spot/colors, as in the OP, is fine, and I actually found it visually appealing, initially, as one or both of the colors work for me on the base chip colors you've chosen. It just makes the chips not as dynamic or singular, which isn't your point, as you're trying to keep the theme, which I dig. Ultimately, do what you want for yourself. This is your set that you'll own the rest of your life and pass on to someone you know. Take in the advice here (it will save you money and heartache, guaranteed) but ultimately do your own thing with your design.

Oh, I presume this is a tournament set with the $5 as your T5 starting chip?

Thanks for all the feedback, I wanted to keep the maize and blue edge spots consistent through all the chip values for the Michigan theme. I currently have a Paulson Classics set that we use for tourneys, I have 2,150 in that set (500 of each $5/$10/$25/$100 and 100 $500 and 50 $1000). We usually have 21-24 players in our monthly home event. I start everyone with $1500 in chips, blinds at $10/$20. Starting chip break down is 15 of each $5/$10/$25 and 9 $100s.

Seems like most people who order the custom sets avoid the $10 chip and stick with $5/$25/$100 etc... If I got 500 of each $5s and $25s, 400 $100s and 100 $500s I could start with a 1,500 chip set and run the event the same way. Starting stacks would be 20 $5s, 20 $25s, and 9 $100s.
 

TKEUofM

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Great improvement with the different edgespots and still keeping the colors you want for them. Still curious if you were to make the 100 base Charcoal, just making the Black lighter in general. But still comes out great overall. Also like you doing more with the inlay imprint.

Here is the $100 in charcoal. Just worried it might be a little to close to the $1,000 though.
1587157583052.png
1587157645992.png
 

TKEUofM

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Ok, I went back to my original design with the big block M and removed the other text. Added some variation to the edge spots and added a $0.25 and $1 chip. Cost blends out to $3.01 per chip for a 2,500 chip order

400 - $0.25
300 - $1
500 - $5
500 - $25
400 - $100
200 - $500
100 - $1,000
100 - $5,000

Estimated total cost $7,522.... YIKES!

Thoughts/Comments/Feedback appreciated. :)

Chip Set - v2.png
 

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Mods, can we ban this guy.....

Kidding. Kinda. Go Ohio.

Now, let's get to the important stuff. I think your going to have a hard time keeping those spots across each chip and make each chip work. It works well with certain chips (like, I can dig the 1k), but clashes like no other on others (the 5k just isn't clicking, IMO)

The way to get around this is to have a single chip that is a flag bearer for this set. Make one chip the ONE that screams Michigan. Again, just advise. It's worth about as much as you paid for it. Nothing!
Ohio? Do you mean OSU? Fuck them! Nittany Lions forever! PSU!
 

Klobberer

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Ok, I went back to my original design with the big block M and removed the other text. Added some variation to the edge spots and added a $0.25 and $1 chip. Cost blends out to $3.01 per chip for a 2,500 chip order

400 - $0.25
300 - $1
500 - $5
500 - $25
400 - $100
200 - $500
100 - $1,000
100 - $5,000

Estimated total cost $7,522.... YIKES!

Thoughts/Comments/Feedback appreciated. :)

View attachment 474357
Jeez! What games are you hosting? How many players? Stakes?

Unless you're playing quarter limit, you don't need 400 quarters... Should be able to shrink your set considerably. I have no problem seating 24 players with 10k starting stack with my 1000 chip tourney set. Includes re-buys...
 

GianThaMan

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Ok, I went back to my original design with the big block M and removed the other text. Added some variation to the edge spots and added a $0.25 and $1 chip. Cost blends out to $3.01 per chip for a 2,500 chip order

400 - $0.25
300 - $1
500 - $5
500 - $25
400 - $100
200 - $500
100 - $1,000
100 - $5,000

Estimated total cost $7,522.... YIKES!

Thoughts/Comments/Feedback appreciated. :)

View attachment 474357
Is that both a tourney and a cash set? If it is, I would recommend you make some design differences between them to clarify to your players, and so that no one tries to bring in a higher denom chip into your cash game. Don't want someone cashing a 5k chip in 0.25/0.50. Maybe add a no cash value or remove the $ sign for the tourney chips.
 

TKEUofM

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Jeez! What games are you hosting? How many players? Stakes?

Unless you're playing quarter limit, you don't need 400 quarters... Should be able to shrink your set considerably. I have no problem seating 24 players with 10k starting stack with my 1000 chip tourney set. Includes re-buys...
We have 21-27 players. Usually a $1,500 starting stack for tournaments. I probably wouldn’t even need the $1k or $5k, I just threw them on there for fun since it would be a custom order.

I have another cash set for tournament nights so I wouldn’t put the same set into play for both. Cash games are usually $0.25/$0.50 but sometimes go up to $0.50/$1 by the end of the night.

Also wanted to order a big set as I have two sons that I would like to pass them down so I would want to be able to split it up. This would be a set that I never sell and wouldn’t want to worry about adding on later.
 

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Is that both a tourney and a cash set? If it is, I would recommend you make some design differences between them to clarify to your players, and so that no one tries to bring in a higher denom chip into your cash game. Don't want someone cashing a 5k chip in 0.25/0.50. Maybe add a no cash value or remove the $ sign for the tourney chips.
Good point. Maybe make a $20 for the cash game and use $25 and higher for tourney, That way cash & tourney never see the same game together
 

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Maybe make the 1k a more conventional yellow based chip with a blue edge spot, making it a 2 color chip?
Also, I think Dayglo Saturn would make a better shade of gold for you.

I'd tell you to put a pic of Harbaugh on the flip side, but then you'll have to re-do the set in a year or so.

Screen Shot 2020-06-11 at 4.54.57 PM.png

Screen Shot 2020-06-11 at 4.53.56 PM.png
 

GianThaMan

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Maybe make the 1k a more conventional yellow based chip with a blue edge spot, making it a 2 color chip?
Also, I think Dayglo Saturn would make a better shade of gold for you.

I'd tell you to put a pic of Harbaugh on the flip side, but then you'll have to re-do the set in a year or so.

View attachment 474374
View attachment 474373
If you’re gonna make the 1k yellow, at least don’t make it dayglo saturn. Dayglo saturn looks pretty bad in person, at least IMO.
 
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