CPC Edge Spots (1 Viewer)

Side37

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What design considerations should one take to avoid split edge spots? Obviously, thinner edge spots are more susceptible to splitting, but do specific colors hold up better? How about weighted vs. unweighted?
 
1/8” spots are the only thing you should avoid if you are worried about spots splitting.

It doesn’t happen on every chip, but it does happen enough.
 
1/8” spots are the only thing you should avoid if you are worried about spots splitting.
Mostly true. 1/4" black spots on a DG Yellow base - and possibly other lighter bases - are also at risk. While most of them won't split at 1/4", you still get an *extreme* hourglass effect and it makes the spots look wonky.
 
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So you think the lighter colors tend to push things around more when they're base? That would make sense. I've seen a bunch of white chips with similar hour glass effect. Doesn't appear to happen as much with darker base colors.
 
So you think the lighter colors tend to push things around more when they're base?
Not sure. Am only commenting on what I've observed in both my Armory $1's and my Cavalry Club snappers - Black disappears as a spot in Dg Yellow.
 
There is an old thread on CT which has a lot of research and feedback on the topic with ASM chips, much of it from JimB, including suggestions on how to avoid or minimize it during design. There were also a few posts from BCC scattered across a couple of other threads.

iirc, white and other really light base colors (yellow, green, blue, pink, gray) typically are either more dense than the really dark colors (black, dark blue, dark green, dark red), or the lighter colors become 'molten' at higher temperatures than the darks.

This causes some spot types -- V being the worst -- of the low temp/less dense material becoming softer first (as temperatures rise), and getting displaced or squeezed by the surrounding harder/more dense/less softened material of the lighter color base slug. Sometimes it squeezes it completely together (split spot); other times you get the hourglass effect on the spot edges. It can even make the spot disappear altogether, although what has actually happened is that the spot was totally engulfed by the base material (a cross section cut would reveal the spot material actually inside of the chip, not visible from the surface).

It also works in a similar fashion with dark base and light spots (think BCC Mardi Gras v2 $1 and $500 chips). The clays at the opposite ends of the light/dark color spectrum are also at opposite ends of the 'affected-by-temperature' spectrum -- it doesn't all heat up uniformly.

It's equal parts science, art, and magic to get it right. Remarkable that they can be made at all, really.
 
I can confirm a Psypher's results, and it meshes with what BGinGA said. In my case, it was a Saturn Yellow base with Black edge spots. 312 edge spots with some serious Vs and a few complete splits.
 
Thank you for the input guys!
I get the point that reality on clay offers an image less perfect than what is seen on the chip designer screen.
Having seen Psypher's Vs and 1/4 spots on his PrOn, I say that I could live with that kind of "imperfection".
All said, do you regret having Vs?
 
I do not regret the Vs. Minor imperfections are a part of what makes the chips a work of art, versus a disk made in a machine. It's like seeing a brushstroke in a landscape painting. It's not as clear as a photograph, but it feels much better and unique.
 
Would there be any standard "arguments" in a 3V12 vs 3TA316 debate?
Interestingly, the latter are one level up from the former, while 4V12s are same level.
Is there any "orthodoxy" as to the rank each of the two would/should hold within an edge-progressing set? (one can always be heretical of course).

What I have remarked about the 3TA316s is that, in relation to V12s, they do better justice to the middle little spot (in relation to the outer two).
 
1/8 spots are also the most shallow spots too. More noticeable when they are not combined with other spots and use as solo spots. Ex: 418, 618.

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