Cash chips and Tournament Chips Question (1 Viewer)

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New to all of this. Wanting to start hosting some games (micro cash games and/or $25-$50 tournament games) and don't understand the difference between running Cash Games or Tournament Games.

A few questions:

-Do people often use one set of chips that can do both cash and tournament games? I understand that I would need quite a few different denominations if this were to be done right. Is it a better idea to have a set dedicated to the micro cash games, and a different set for tournament play?

-If I can do both games with one set of chips, can anyone give a breakdown of, # of chips and denominations?

-Is it common for tournament games to keep blinds (say $1/$2) throughout the game, or would I always need to increase blinds every ~20 minutes, like more threads I've been reading?

For my micro stakes I am thinking:
100x 5c
200x 25c
200x $1
100x $5
50x $20/$25 ($25s would make more sense if I was trying to use the same set for tournaments, right?)

Thanks for any help, and sorry if these questions have been asked before. I've tried searching around the forums before posting.
 
A few questions:

-Do people often use one set of chips that can do both cash and tournament games? I understand that I would need quite a few different denominations if this were to be done right. Is it a better idea to have a set dedicated to the micro cash games, and a different set for tournament play?

-If I can do both games with one set of chips, can anyone give a breakdown of, # of chips and denominations?

-Is it common for tournament games to keep blinds (say $1/$2) throughout the game, or would I always need to increase blinds every ~20 minutes, like more threads I've been reading?

1A) Some do, but it is generally NOT advised for security reasons.

1B) Yes - it’s better idea to have separate cash & tourney sets.

2) Again, not recommended, but you could create the following set without overlap:

5c - 100
25c - 200
$1 - 200
$5 - 80
$20 - 20

25 - 120
100 - 120
500 - 50
1000 - 75
5000 - 25

Total of 1,000 chips (600 for cash, 400 for tourney)

3) You always need to increase blinds in a tournament, so you can predict about when it will end. If you never increased the blinds, you are essentially playing a cash game.
 
People usually tell you not to use the same chips for tournaments and cash games for security reasons and they’re usually right. But that’s because people usually use higher denom chips for tournaments. So, say you handed out a 10k tournament stack using eight $25s and eight $100s, four $500’s, and five $1,000s and the tournament buy-in was $50. If somebody just made a couple of $25 chips disappear, it wouldn’t affect their tournament at all - they still have 95% of their stack. But then if, when there’s a cash game, they slide those chips back in their stack, suddenly they’re ahead $50.
But it wouldn’t be a problem for you if you use microstakes chips for tournaments at face value. If it’s a $25 tournament, make the starting stacks $25 worth of your microstakes cash chips. Say, ten x .05, ten x .25, twelve x $1.00, two x $5.00. Then your $25 tournament stack is also worth $25 in the cash game.
Boom! No security risk.
 
People usually tell you not to use the same chips for tournaments and cash games for security reasons and they’re usually right. But that’s because people usually use higher denom chips for tournaments. So, say you handed out a 10k tournament stack using eight $25s and eight $100s, four $500’s, and five $1,000s and the tournament buy-in was $50. If somebody just made a couple of $25 chips disappear, it wouldn’t affect their tournament at all - they still have 95% of their stack. But then if, when there’s a cash game, they slide those chips back in their stack, suddenly they’re ahead $50.
But it wouldn’t be a problem for you if you use microstakes chips for tournaments at face value. If it’s a $25 tournament, make the starting stacks $25 worth of your microstakes cash chips. Say, ten x .05, ten x .25, twelve x $1.00, two x $5.00. Then your $25 tournament stack is also worth $25 in the cash game.
Boom! No security risk.
My set coming in a bit is cash from 50 cents to 25k. I like to be spicy.
 
1A) Some do, but it is generally NOT advised for security reasons.

1B) Yes - it’s better idea to have separate cash & tourney sets.

2) Again, not recommended, but you could create the following set without overlap:

5c - 100
25c - 200
$1 - 200
$5 - 80
$20 - 20

25 - 120
100 - 120
500 - 50
1000 - 75
5000 - 25

Total of 1,000 chips (600 for cash, 400 for tourney)

3) You always need to increase blinds in a tournament, so you can predict about when it will end. If you never increased the blinds, you are essentially playing a cash game.
So 2 sets. Which is fine cause then I can have a nicer chip collection haha…but it’ll cost me!

I guess my other question would be. I’m a cash game, if a player wanted to just “cash out” and leave half way through it, is that an option?

I’d want it to work like:
1st player gets $x
2nd player gets $x
3rd gets their buy-in back

So players play until their out.

Sorry if this isn’t making much sense how I’m trying to describe it haha.
 
People usually tell you not to use the same chips for tournaments and cash games for security reasons and they’re usually right. But that’s because people usually use higher denom chips for tournaments. So, say you handed out a 10k tournament stack using eight $25s and eight $100s, four $500’s, and five $1,000s and the tournament buy-in was $50. If somebody just made a couple of $25 chips disappear, it wouldn’t affect their tournament at all - they still have 95% of their stack. But then if, when there’s a cash game, they slide those chips back in their stack, suddenly they’re ahead $50.
But it wouldn’t be a problem for you if you use microstakes chips for tournaments at face value. If it’s a $25 tournament, make the starting stacks $25 worth of your microstakes cash chips. Say, ten x .05, ten x .25, twelve x $1.00, two x $5.00. Then your $25 tournament stack is also worth $25 in the cash game.
Boom! No security risk.
Thanks for typing all that out cause now I actually understand what the issue is. 2 sets it is. Now I gotta find someone to sell me some Card Mold Arias!!!
 
People usually tell you not to use the same chips for tournaments and cash games for security reasons and they’re usually right. But that’s because people usually use higher denom chips for tournaments. So, say you handed out a 10k tournament stack using eight $25s and eight $100s, four $500’s, and five $1,000s and the tournament buy-in was $50. If somebody just made a couple of $25 chips disappear, it wouldn’t affect their tournament at all - they still have 95% of their stack. But then if, when there’s a cash game, they slide those chips back in their stack, suddenly they’re ahead $50.
But it wouldn’t be a problem for you if you use microstakes chips for tournaments at face value. If it’s a $25 tournament, make the starting stacks $25 worth of your microstakes cash chips. Say, ten x .05, ten x .25, twelve x $1.00, two x $5.00. Then your $25 tournament stack is also worth $25 in the cash game.
Boom! No security risk.
I’ve never quite followed this logic. If chips migrate from the tournament to the cash game, the cash game bank is still going to be short, regardless of how much was paid for them over in the tournament. What am I missing?
 
I’ve never quite followed this logic. If chips migrate from the tournament to the cash game, the cash game bank is still going to be short, regardless of how much was paid for them over in the tournament. What am I missing?
The cash game bank being short is a problem. Usually the host will cover any shortages to keep the game legit. But anyway you’d remedy that problem, it’s a big problem that you as a host would like to avoid at all costs.
 
Security is certainly something you want to think about even at small stakes. But the really important issue is having two sets of chips because more chips are healthier and more financial prudent. You can look up articles in “the New England Journal of Medicine” and “The Quarterly Journal of Economics” and they will bear this out but just trust me on this.
 
I started with a tournament set because I could use it for either. No one minds using 100 for a $1 chip. If you are worried about security, keep the buyin stacks the same. For example T2500 buy in for $25 cash game and the same T2500 for your $25 tournament. That makes pocketing chips unprofitable.

Later I added a cash set, and of course I now rotate several. I get some security from the fact that no one knows which set might hit the felt on a given day. Most of the sets are not that easy to get, as I really don’t have any off the shelf commercial sets anymore.

Also we play a friendly game with low stakes, so I’ve never had a problem with the bank being short at the end of the night.

Also yes, you do raise blinds in a tournament to force people out.
 
I'm a huge advocate for two separate sets. I often hear new folks balk at the idea, claiming their friends wouldn't cheat or that it's friendly, etc.. Sure, but I've seen first hand examples of people cheating like this in games with ALL friends. It happens. The idea of two sets simply reduced the opportunity and temptation for shenanigans, and THAT makes everyone more comfortable and confident that the game will be run legit.

And a simple explanation between cash vs tourney...

Cash is cash. You put money in and receive equal representation/value in chips. You play the game, you win, you lose, you rebuy? whatever, but when you decide you've lost or won too much money, or you can't keep your eye lids open any longer, you announce you're cashing out and the host, with the buy in money (or bank) secured, then pays out for the amount of chips the player has in front of them.

Tourney is a contest. Everyone puts in an equal (at first) amount of entry money "buy-in", and receives an amount of chips (can be any amount). There's a blind structure (that increases at intervals to keep the game moving), and only a certain percentage of the players will reach "the money" (usually 25-33% of the field). The rest payed to play, and go home losers once they bust out, meaning they've lost all their chips. (Maybe they start a cash game?).

You can find many many threads on particular structures that will vary for how many players, how many chips you want to issue out (starting stacks), and about how long you want the game to run. There are some wild and weird structures people will suggest, but I suggest going with more traditional structures, similar to what people might find if they went to a casino. You're training your players to play real casino games, so when they go to vegas (or any casino) the games won't be intimidating to them. Poker grows.

So a common tourney startup structure might be 10-15k stacks. Maybe start at T25 (t stands for tourney and differentiates between cash chips), and uses T25, T100, T500, T1k, T5k chips. Typically for efficiency you want the denomination to increase 4-5x the previous denomination. The exception is usually the 500/1000 chips, which seems to be a casino standard. Lets use 10k stacks in this example:

Each player receives:
12 x T25 (300)
12 x T100 (1200)
7 x 500 (3500)
7 x 1000 (7000)

= 12,000 in starting chips.

Blind structures might be something like this:

25/50
50/100
75/150
100/200
150/300
200/400
300/600
400/800

etc...

Best of luck. Use the search function, and ask lots of questions if you have them.
 
For my micro stakes I am thinking:
100x 5c
200x 25c
200x $1
100x $5
50x $20/$25 ($25s would make more sense if I was trying to use the same set for tournaments, right?)
Good breakdown but you prob rarely use $20/25 so you can get away with just a barrel of them

100x 5c
200x 25c
200x $1
80x $5
20x $20/$25

will the norm for breakdown,

If you want to mix Cash and Tourney for the same set , It is not recommended but you can do a T5c 2000c for a $20 tourney, this way there's will be no worry about chip going south.

10x 5c
10x 25c
7x $1
2x $5 will be your starting $20 stack

You can use $1 & $5 for rebuy and color-up

Below is a structure for T5 for your reference
1658895810122.png
 
As long as you don't play cash and tourney on the same night with the same set, you will be able to avoid any bank issues. Using a t25 base tournament set for a 25c/50c cash game can work well (until you get a second set), you just usually want more t500 than a usual tournament set will have for the cash game. Same goes for a t5 base tournament set flexing to a 5c/10c cash game. Players are unlikely to pocket low value denoms from the tournament to turn into change, and if chips ever do go missing after a tournament, you don't play cash with that set until they are found. I don't recommend having a set with both cash and tourney denoms where the 25/100 plays double duty as a low value tournament denom and a high value cash denom, that's where your risk goes way up.

For new people hosting poker, you need to figure out the difference between how cash games work vs tournaments, and which format is better for your group/how you want the night to go (it may be both!).

Cash games have fixed blinds for the whole night, players can buy in for any amount they want (usually limited from 50-200 big blinds with a recommendation of at least 100 BB and a few extra rebuys in case they bust early) and can add on if their stack gets low. Then they cash out for whatever they have when they leave or the game breaks.

Tournaments are structured so that the blinds go up at a set interval (15-30+ mins, but you can adjust this to make it last however long you'd want) and there will eventually be a single winner. Everyone buys in for a set amount that goes to the purse to pay the winner(s) and everyone starts with the same amount of chips. Sometimes tournaments allow rebuys where you can buy another starting stack if you bust (I'd say a popular option is the first person to bust has the option to rebuy, but no more after that).

Tournaments are popular when all of the players only want to spend a fixed, usually small amount for the night (say $20) and play for up to a few hours, but players that bust early can be left out while everyone else finishes the tournament. Cash games can last much longer than tournaments and allow people to come and go as they wish without disrupting the game like they would in a tournament if they had to leave early but still had a sizeable chip stack, but they can make people feel uncomfortable because there can be more money at stake. In my experience, newer players tend to like tournaments better because of the fixed amount at risk, and more experienced players tend to like cash games more where they aren't forced into flip situations when the tournament blinds have gotten very high.
 
I'm a huge advocate for two separate sets. I often hear new folks balk at the idea, claiming their friends wouldn't cheat or that it's friendly, etc.. Sure, but I've seen first hand examples of people cheating like this in games with ALL friends. It happens. The idea of two sets simply reduced the opportunity and temptation for shenanigans, and THAT makes everyone more comfortable and confident that the game will be run legit.

And a simple explanation between cash vs tourney...

Cash is cash. You put money in and receive equal representation/value in chips. You play the game, you win, you lose, you rebuy? whatever, but when you decide you've lost or won too much money, or you can't keep your eye lids open any longer, you announce you're cashing out and the host, with the buy in money (or bank) secured, then pays out for the amount of chips the player has in front of them.

Tourney is a contest. Everyone puts in an equal (at first) amount of entry money "buy-in", and receives an amount of chips (can be any amount). There's a blind structure (that increases at intervals to keep the game moving), and only a certain percentage of the players will reach "the money" (usually 25-33% of the field). The rest payed to play, and go home losers once they bust out, meaning they've lost all their chips. (Maybe they start a cash game?).

You can find many many threads on particular structures that will vary for how many players, how many chips you want to issue out (starting stacks), and about how long you want the game to run. There are some wild and weird structures people will suggest, but I suggest going with more traditional structures, similar to what people might find if they went to a casino. You're training your players to play real casino games, so when they go to vegas (or any casino) the games won't be intimidating to them. Poker grows.

So a common tourney startup structure might be 10-15k stacks. Maybe start at T25 (t stands for tourney and differentiates between cash chips), and uses T25, T100, T500, T1k, T5k chips. Typically for efficiency you want the denomination to increase 4-5x the previous denomination. The exception is usually the 500/1000 chips, which seems to be a casino standard. Lets use 10k stacks in this example:

Each player receives:
12 x T25 (300)
12 x T100 (1200)
7 x 500 (3500)
7 x 1000 (7000)

= 12,000 in starting chips.

Blind structures might be something like this:

25/50
50/100
75/150
100/200
150/300
200/400
300/600
400/800

etc...

Best of luck. Use the search function, and ask lots of questions if you have them.
Thanks for taking the time to go through all of that. It's really helpful, and makes al lot of sense now! I will start with a cash set and eventually get a separate chip set for tournaments.

In my experience, newer players tend to like tournaments better because of the fixed amount at risk, and more experienced players tend to like cash games more where they aren't forced into flip situations when the tournament blinds have gotten very high.
Thanks for all the info. This line here helped a lot haha. I couldn't understand why tournament play wouldn't always be the pick, but yes, once blinds are up there, it can essentially force you out. Thanks again!

Good breakdown but you prob rarely use $20/25 so you can get away with just a barrel of them

100x 5c
200x 25c
200x $1
80x $5
20x $20/$25

will the norm for breakdown,

If you want to mix Cash and Tourney for the same set , It is not recommended but you can do a T5c 2000c for a $20 tourney, this way there's will be no worry about chip going south.

10x 5c
10x 25c
7x $1
2x $5 will be your starting $20 stack

You can use $1 & $5 for rebuy and color-up

Below is a structure for T5 for your reference
View attachment 956156
Thanks for sharing the blinds structure!
 
One way to use a single chipset (for thematic unity) across both cash and tournament without introducing security concerns is to divide the denoms between the two groups:

Cash: 25c, $1, $5, $20
Tourney: $25, $100, $500, $1000, $5000 (etc if needed)

You end up with both $20 and $25 chips, but one is cash only and one is tournament only. It prevents you from using $100 chips in the cash game, but depending on how big your game plays that might be just fine. You might decide to get some $100 plaques for the cash game, or let $100 bills play on the table.

This requires a chipset that has both $20 and $25. Most of the used casino sets we like to collect here on PCF won't have that, but many of the commonly-available retail sets do, and if you're getting customs - whether custom labels, custom-printed ceramics, semi-custom ceramics with custom denominations, or CPC custom clays - then you can create whatever denominations you like and include them in your set.

This is largely a matter of aesthetics rather than practicality, though. By doing this, you're not saving money on chips; you're still buying two sets (one cash and one tourney) and you're still keeping them separate, it's just that a) you can buy them all at once from the same source and b) you can have the satisfaction of knowing that all your chips look like they belong together. If you find one design that you really like you can use it twice!

An alternative, though, is to have different but related designs for your two sets. This is really only practical if you get customs (labels, ceramics, or CPC clays). A design scheme that many PCF members use is to have a cash set with a "spot progression" (where the spots, aka inserts, get more complex as you go up from the low denominations to the high denominations) and then have a tournament set with a similar and obviously related design, where the spots are uniform across all the chips and merely different in color.

Here's an example using Empress Star cash and tourney chips:

Cash:
1658931640746.png


Tourney:
1658931675845.png


Welcome to the forum! Enjoy the process of deciding on your new set of chips. :)
 
Last edited:
One way to use a single chipset (for thematic unity) across both cash and tournament without introducing security concerns is to divide the denoms between the two groups:

Cash: 25c, $1, $5, $20
Tourney: $25, $100, $500, $1000, $5000 (etc if needed)

You end up with both $20 and $25 chips, but one is cash only and one is tournament only. It prevents you from using $100 chips in the cash game, but depending on how big your game plays that might be just fine. You might decide to get some $100 plaques for the cash game, or let $100 bills play on the table.

This requires a chipset that has both $20 and $25. Most of the used casino sets we like to collect here on PCF won't have that, but many of the commonly-available retail sets do, and if you're getting customs - whether custom labels, custom-printed ceramics, semi-custom ceramics with custom denominations, or CPC custom clays - then you can create whatever denominations you like and include them in your set.

This is largely a matter of aesthetics rather than practicality, though. By doing this, you're not saving money on chips; you're still buying two sets (one cash and one tourney) and you're still keeping them separate, it's just that a) you can buy them all at once from the same source and b) you can have the satisfaction of knowing that all your chips look like they belong together. If you find one design that you really like you can use it twice!

An alternative, though, is to have different but related designs for your two sets. This is really only practical if you get customs (labels, ceramics, or CPC clays). A design scheme that may PCF members use is to have a cash set with a "spot progression" (where the spots, aka inserts, get more complex as you go up from the low denominations to the high denominations) and then have a tournament set with a similar and obviously related design, where the spots are uniform across all the chips and merely different in color.

Here's an example using Empress Star cash and tourney chips:

Cash:
View attachment 956279

Tourney:
View attachment 956281

Welcome to the forum! Enjoy the process of deciding on your new set of chips. :)
Those 25c chips from the cash set are sick! I love the color. And thanks, this is what I was thinking in the first place, but was going to use the $25s in both games. Now if I buy $20s and split the sets, that'll make much more sense. Thanks for the suggestions!
I feel like deciding on a chip set is impossible, and that's why so many people have so many different sets hahah. Looking forward to hopefully finding some samples on the forums to see and feel.
Thanks again!
 
One way to use a single chipset (for thematic unity) across both cash and tournament without introducing security concerns is to divide the denoms between the two groups:

Cash: 25c, $1, $5, $20
Tourney: $25, $100, $500, $1000, $5000 (etc if needed)

You end up with both $20 and $25 chips, but one is cash only and one is tournament only. It prevents you from using $100 chips in the cash game, but depending on how big your game plays that might be just fine. You might decide to get some $100 plaques for the cash game, or let $100 bills play on the table.

This requires a chipset that has both $20 and $25. Most of the used casino sets we like to collect here on PCF won't have that, but many of the commonly-available retail sets do, and if you're getting customs - whether custom labels, custom-printed ceramics, semi-custom ceramics with custom denominations, or CPC custom clays - then you can create whatever denominations you like and include them in your set.

This is largely a matter of aesthetics rather than practicality, though. By doing this, you're not saving money on chips; you're still buying two sets (one cash and one tourney) and you're still keeping them separate, it's just that a) you can buy them all at once from the same source and b) you can have the satisfaction of knowing that all your chips look like they belong together. If you find one design that you really like you can use it twice!

An alternative, though, is to have different but related designs for your two sets. This is really only practical if you get customs (labels, ceramics, or CPC clays). A design scheme that many PCF members use is to have a cash set with a "spot progression" (where the spots, aka inserts, get more complex as you go up from the low denominations to the high denominations) and then have a tournament set with a similar and obviously related design, where the spots are uniform across all the chips and merely different in color.

Here's an example using Empress Star cash and tourney chips:

Cash:
View attachment 956279

Tourney:
View attachment 956281

Welcome to the forum! Enjoy the process of deciding on your new set of chips. :)
Your post is as informative as it is cruel.
 
just pretend your eyesight is going and that there's a currency symbol and a period that you just can't see
 
As long as you don't play cash and tourney on the same night with the same set, you will be able to avoid any bank issues. Using a t25 base tournament set for a 25c/50c cash game can work well (until you get a second set), you just usually want more t500 than a usual tournament set will have for the cash game. Same goes for a t5 base tournament set flexing to a 5c/10c cash game. Players are unlikely to pocket low value denoms from the tournament to turn into change, and if chips ever do go missing after a tournament, you don't play cash with that set until they are found. I don't recommend having a set with both cash and tourney denoms where the 25/100 plays double duty as a low value tournament denom and a high value cash denom, that's where your risk goes way up.

For new people hosting poker, you need to figure out the difference between how cash games work vs tournaments, and which format is better for your group/how you want the night to go (it may be both!).

Cash games have fixed blinds for the whole night, players can buy in for any amount they want (usually limited from 50-200 big blinds with a recommendation of at least 100 BB and a few extra rebuys in case they bust early) and can add on if their stack gets low. Then they cash out for whatever they have when they leave or the game breaks.

Tournaments are structured so that the blinds go up at a set interval (15-30+ mins, but you can adjust this to make it last however long you'd want) and there will eventually be a single winner. Everyone buys in for a set amount that goes to the purse to pay the winner(s) and everyone starts with the same amount of chips. Sometimes tournaments allow rebuys where you can buy another starting stack if you bust (I'd say a popular option is the first person to bust has the option to rebuy, but no more after that).

Tournaments are popular when all of the players only want to spend a fixed, usually small amount for the night (say $20) and play for up to a few hours, but players that bust early can be left out while everyone else finishes the tournament. Cash games can last much longer than tournaments and allow people to come and go as they wish without disrupting the game like they would in a tournament if they had to leave early but still had a sizeable chip stack, but they can make people feel uncomfortable because there can be more money at stake. In my experience, newer players tend to like tournaments better because of the fixed amount at risk, and more experienced players tend to like cash games more where they aren't forced into flip situations when the tournament blinds have gotten very high.
Jesus Ben . We get it.

Oh..... Shit. That's not Ben.
 
Shit happens when you party naked write posts on your phone and can't see how long winded you've become.

Plus I like @Ben8257 and his appropriately sized for whatever topic he's commenting on posts :p
See. This post alone is so short that everything you said is a lie.

Man.... Don't try and hustle me.
 
Buy a tourney set with a T25 base.

Use T25 as a quarter
T100 as a dollar
T500 as a Five.
T1k as a 10
T5k as a 50.

Yes, it's a odd breakdown after the 500s, but it works fine overall. Done it many times.

Agree with this. You can use a set like this for both cash and tournament.

Though often my cash game starts as soon as enough people bust out of the tournament. So to have two games going at once, going to need two sets.

You might find your players prefer cash or tournament. So you could end up playing one or the other most of the night. Cash is nice because you can show up or leave at any time. Tournament requires everyone to show up at a given time.

Cash has the potential to win or lose a lot more money. You could have a $100 buy in game and have people down $500 pretty quickly. Tournament is good for a fixed budget because you know how much the buy in is.
 
What you can do is use a T100 as a base for your tournament set, and save $25s for the cash game. I personally think T100 base is much better than T25's, can use them longer in a tourney structure than T25's, easier to keep track of pots/stack sizes, etc.
 
But it wouldn’t be a problem for you if you use microstakes chips for tournaments at face value. If it’s a $25 tournament, make the starting stacks $25 worth of your microstakes cash chips. Say, ten x .05, ten x .25, twelve x $1.00, two x $5.00. Then your $25 tournament stack is also worth $25 in the cash game.
Boom! No security risk.

I just posted about my first set. I was starting to arrive at this conclusion as well. Then when I read upndown's comment, that gave me confidence that T.05 can be a good approach. This comment from upndown is really one of the best ideas that I have read on the topic of chip breakdowns. Even at larger buy-ins, say $100, having your starting stack chip value be equal to your buy-in value has a lot of merit.

All the talk about T100 or T1000 is merely aesthetics. If you start your stack at a lower denomination, your gonna have sufficient denominations in the chip ecosystem to run mega deep tournaments with aggressive blind schedules. I hope this idea gets a lot of adherents. It's really smart. Then chip styles like Monte Carlos really shine with a wide selection of denominations.
 

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