Asking for opinions on color scheme (1 Viewer)

DerFabo

Two Pair
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Since I still have to save a lot of money for a custom cpc set, my taste changes quite a lot. I'm not sure if I will ever be happy enough about a designed set to pull the trigger on it.

But, and I know I'm not the onlyone, I spent a lot of time in the design tool.
Here's a color scheme I recently came up with:
18671112-de81-48bc-bed9-7dc80bfd58ce.png


#1: T25
#2: T100
#3: T500
#4: T1K
#5: T5K
#6: T25K
#7: T100K

Please note that any similaritys to other mockup sets out here are not intended.

Im not sure yet, which edgespots I'd like to choose. But I don't want to go higher than pricing lvl 4 per chip. I would not mind if one chip or to reach level 5, but over all I would like to keep it as cheap as possible.

But this thread is not about the edgespots.
What do you guys think about my color scheme? What would you change?
I'm definetly not happy with the T500 chip. But I can not come up with a great color matching the lavender base...

Thanks in advance
:):)
 
First thought: too much repetition of the same colours (namely DG green and white).

3D14 edge spot is a great choice for a classic lineup.

Take your time and enjoy the journey, I must have gone through 70+ iterations of my CPC set before I landed on the final lineup.
 
- #5 and #6 are way too similar overall, you'd have tons of dirty stack issues. It doesn't help that you use the same edge spot for all the chips.

- Get a physical color sample set from CPC. Some of their colors look radically different on screen vs. real life. DG Saturn is a good example. High chance you will bite your ass once the chips arrive if you exclusively built your design on screen.

- Change the backgroud in the chip design tool to a neutral gray. Using a colored background like your light green here skews your perception of the chip colors. There is a reason why professional design and photo editing software has its user interface all in gray.

- Also the chips look radically different with vs. without inlay. If you are going to order a set with inlays, also put an inlay on them in the design tool, even if it's just a placeholder. What is of big importance is that the placeholder overall color match the later actual inlay's overall color (white/black/color-matched/...).

- Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, but imo Lavender goes well with DG Arc Yellow plus DG Tiger.
 
Hey! For the most part, it looks ok, but the 5k/25k combo is a dirty stack nightmare. Maybe do a blue 25k, or a white 25k with a blue 100k?

And do lots of iterations of edgespots, then go back to your first attempt after a few weeks. I’ve gone back my earliest designs and thought “what was I thinking?” YMMV.
 
Maybe try a different green for your 25, I love your 100! I really liked my purple with light blue and white for the 500.
1579564065373.png
 
Think a bit about the inlay. What is the inlay going to look like? Do you have a theme or an idea for the set?

Base color progression is ok, but I would ditch the day glow pink chip in the progression. I agree that chips 5&6 are too close.
 
- Get a physical color sample set from CPC. Some of their colors look radically different on screen vs. real life. DG Saturn is a good example. High chance you will bite your ass once the chips arrive if you exclusively built your design on screen.
I have a color sample set. But I find it still hard to imagine made chips using the sample set :D
 
I also forgot to mention that I'm thinking about getting those chips without inlays to use replaceable sticker inlays that I can change over different tourneys I'd like to use the chips for.
What du you think about this idea? Is it practical?

The inlay I am always thinking of is a custom aria or bellagio cash style type. So it would be pretty dark on every chip.
 
If you order the chips without inlays, there will not be a recess on the chips to place aftermarket labels in. Putting stickers on chips without a recess will 1) reliably cause spinners and 2) since the surface of the chips is heavily textured for most molds, the labels won't stick well in the first place.

Also changing labels is a PITA and I know of no stickers that actually are properly reusable, so every time you change the labels you'd be in for a fully new set of printed labels.

So no, changing inlays is absolutely not practical.

Further down the road, if you grow tired of the inlay design you initially ordered after many years, then you can pop out the inlays and put labels in their place. But this is nothing you should be aiming for imo. Original inlays always look way better than labels.

--

If you are aiming for Aria/Bellagio style inlays then yes, make mockups of your chips with a completely black or very dark gray placeholder inlay. Best approximation.
 
After your advices I came up with this idea:

View attachment 901045

The denoms remain as in the original post.
As I mentioned before the edgespots are not final. This is only about the color scheme.
Thank you all :)
This is a big improvment, very nice indeed! I would definitely reconsider dg saturn on the 1k though. It’s not a good color in real life. Canary, dg yellow, yellow, arc yellow are all way better options.
 
Unpopular opinion: you don't need more than 5 denoms. Some even say 4 are enough for a single table tourney or cash set.

I know, and till today 4 denoms was always enough for my tourney, even with 9 players. But something in me just want some higher denom chips (maybe the T100k even in 43mm) really, REALLY bad. :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:

And I throw the idea of max pricing level 4 already out of the window... :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
 
I know, and till today 4 denoms was always enough for my tourney, even with 9 players. But something in me just want some higher denom chips (maybe the T100k even in 43mm) really, REALLY bad. :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
You see the problem :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
But I was also considering ending with T5K and use the white one (what's now m T100k would be) for it. But man... More is better
 
My first opinion is you don’t need 7 chips. That will help with color balance also
Agree with the technicals. T100, T500, T1k, T5k already enough for a single table and probably even two tables.

But I still find it highly advisable to design more denoms than you actually are going to order the first time around. You never know if your games grow later on.

If you design the set only for the denoms you need right now, chances are you unwittingly paint yourself into a corner regarding color choices and/or edge spots... and you only find out when you realize you need an add-on. You can then either order an add-on with a new denom whose design sticks out like a sore thumb in your set, or you have to design a completely new set from the ground up and pay a second time for denoms you otherwise could reuse.

If you design more denominations around your current vision of the set right at the beginning, then you will realize in time (i.e. before any chips are made) if your choice of colors and spots allows for more denominations later on or not.

cpc_cali_44.png


^ Initially only ordered 5c through $100, but at that time I already had mockups for the 1c and $500.
When I later ordered the $500s, I already made mockups for $1k through $25k. Hey, you never know! (money printer go brrr = hyperinflation?)
 

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