Cash Game 500 Chip Breakdown Small Stakes (1 Viewer)

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Currently have a set of 500 chips (three colors [200 white; 200 red; 100 blue), and looking to host a small stakes poker game with about 6-8 people.

I'm currently looking at doing 0.25/0.25 blinds to keep things simple and do the following with the breakdown:

$25 buy in gets you 100bb

200 x $0.25 (white chips)
200 x $1 (red chips)
100 x $5 (blue chips)

Let $20 bills play if necessary.

And I will be giving players stacks of
12 x $0.25
12 x $1
2 x $5

Is that a good breakdown or is there a better way to do this?

Edit: Per @Coyote 's rec I will do as follows:
100 x $0.25 (blues)
200 x $1 (whites)
200 x $5 (reds)
 
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Since they 're Non-Denominated, let blues be the fractional, the whites $1 and the reds $5.
Gives you a bigger total bank and is more consistent with traditional casino (non-California) colors.
12 quarters, 12 dollars and 2 $5s for a $25 buy-in are fine.
 
He said max 8 players. He 's fine with 100 quarters. Even with 9 or 10 players he could give uneven (in composition) starting stacks and still have enough quarters on the table.
If our new friend wishes to ever expand to deep-ish .25/.50 or even .50/.50 (using the blues as half-dollars) he would need another 100 yellow or green chips, standing for $20 or $25 each.
 
He said max 8 players. He 's fine with 100 quarters. Even with 9 or 10 players he could give uneven (in composition) starting stacks and still have enough quarters on the table.
If our new friend wishes to ever expand to deep-ish .25/.50 or even .50/.50 (using the blues as half-dollars) he would need another 100 yellow or green chips, standing for $20 or $25 each.
I'm currently designing a 800 chip cash set with an upcoming card mold order. I'm just trying to best figure out how to use what I have.
 
About the new, 800-strong set:
If your game is never going to grow substantially in stakes, you might consider adopting denominations standing for dimes (1-5- 20 or 25 - 100)..
IMHO, 1/3 dimes plays better than .25/.25 and 2/5 dimes doesn't play really differently than .25/.50.
And of course, you can always play lower, like 1/1 or 1/2 dimes.

This could also be the only way to securely use the same set for both cash and tourneys (provided that a T4,000 tourney costs $40 to buy in, or a T3,000 tourney costs $30).

Or, you could have denominations representing cents (5-25-100-500-1,000) having in mind the above considerations.
 
About the new, 800-strong set:
If your game is never going to grow substantially in stakes, you might consider adopting denominations standing for dimes (1-5- 20 or 25 - 100)..
IMHO, 1/3 dimes plays better than .25/.25 and 2/5 dimes doesn't play really differently than .25/.50.
And of course, you can always play lower, like 1/1 or 1/2 dimes.

This could also be the only way to securely use the same set for both cash and tourneys (provided that a T4,000 tourney costs $40 to buy in, or a T3,000 tourney costs $30).

Or, you could have denominations representing cents (5-25-100-500-1,000) having in mind the above considerations.
What I'm looking at right now is:
100 x 0.05
200 x 0.25
200 x 1
200 x 5
75 x 20
25 x 100

And I'll be ordering about 10-20 extra of each denom to account for any broken/missing/backups.

I figure with this I can play micro-stakes with nickels, But also have plenty to play small stakes 0.25/0.25 or 0.25/0.50.

At this point I'm only really focused on building a good cash set. And then I may look at a tournament set at a later time. I've flirted with the idea of a small CPC tourny set, but I'm kinda looking at one at a time.
 
What I'm looking at right now is:
100 x 0.05
200 x 0.25
200 x 1
200 x 5
75 x 20
25 x 100

And I'll be ordering about 10-20 extra of each denom to account for any broken/missing/backups.

I figure with this I can play micro-stakes with nickels, But also have plenty to play small stakes 0.25/0.25 or 0.25/0.50.

At this point I'm only really focused on building a good cash set. And then I may look at a tournament set at a later time. I've flirted with the idea of a small CPC tourny set, but I'm kinda looking at one at a time.
If I had to tweak this, I 'd only say 175 quarters, for the sake of 100x $20s
 
+1 for blue quarters, white dollars, and red $5

For your 800 chip set, I would recommend 100 less quarters and another 100 dollars. Unless you plan to run two tables, 100 quarters is plenty, even in a nickel dime game.
 
#QUARTERWARS!!!

tenor.gif
 
In my life I 've only used "quarter" for ordering cheese in the supermarket (e.g. a quarter kilogram of smoked Metsovone).

We also use quarter as an increment of the hour around here (a quarter to 3am currently).
:)
 
For a 5¢/10¢ game, 80 nickels is plenty (if your group limps and min-raises a lot, you may want more), and I like about 140-160 quarters.
 
Ask the prospective owner. Probably even 125 of them would do the job, especially if his group doesn't play much 5/10c
 
Ask the prospective owner. Probably even 125 of them would do the job, especially if his group doesn't play much 5/10c
The only reason I was potentially looking at more is if I ran more than 10 people. But if 150 will do it I’ll pad the $1 some more.
 
Ask the prospective owner. Probably even 125 of them would do the job, especially if his group doesn't play much 5/10c
Ahh I can’t read - he also wants to cover a 5/10c game.

The tough part with covering too many blind levels is that the workhorse chip is different for all of them.
 
I think for a single table, it’s best to have at least 200 of your workhorse chip. And maybe pick your main game and have 300-400 of that chip.

I’m thinking of getting:

100 x 25c
200 x $1
400 x $5
200 x $20
100 x $100

Which is probably overkill. And maybe even +5 for each denomination for spares
 
Ahh I can’t read - he also wants to cover a 5/10c game.

The tough part with covering too many blind levels is that the workhorse chip is different for all of them.
Honestly I don’t see myself playing 5c much. But it’s something I want to leave myself an option for especially since I’m ordering customs.
 
Honestly I don’t see myself playing 5c much. But it’s something I want to leave myself an option for especially since I’m ordering customs.
Makes complete sense, that’s why I’m going to buy more than I need too, especially given the economics of these ceramics.
 
Honestly I don’t see myself playing 5c much. But it’s something I want to leave myself an option for especially since I’m ordering customs.
It's a nice option for two reasons:
A. Getting poorer as time goes by (inevitable for honest people)
B. Secure playability as tourney set
 
I was about to jump into cash vs tourney vs hybrid breakdowns; complete with all kinds of queer anecdotal theory.

But I'm so drink(drunk) that anything I might have to offer would be trash. (Many of my detractors would say "Business as usual").

But I do mean this: PLAYER, GOOD LUCK....
 
I like 120 quarters max. 12x 25c is the sweet spot for me. This way there's 12 chips for up to 10 people.

Plus 180x $1 for a single table works well without much change making.
Assuming you’re playing 25/50c blinds with 100BB starting stacks, is there a big difference between the following?

8x 25c ($2)
23x $1 ($23)
5x $5 ($25)

or

12x 25c ($3)
22x $1 ($22)
5x $5 ($25)

Capping at 100x of the lowest denomination gets you 20 more for a higher denomination.

Your view of having 120x the lowest denomination is something I’ve commonly seen, so I think I must be missing something. The only benefit I can think of is slightly less change making, but even with 12x per person, the table usually still needs to make change.

@BGinGA who is THE chip split guru has also recommended 120x 25c to me before.

Can someone please enlighten me?
 
Assuming you’re playing 25/50c blinds with 100BB starting stacks, is there a big difference between the following?

8x 25c ($2)
23x $1 ($23)
5x $5 ($25)

or

12x 25c ($3)
22x $1 ($22)
5x $5 ($25)

Capping at 100x of the lowest denomination gets you 20 more for a higher denomination.

Your view of having 120x the lowest denomination is something I’ve commonly seen, so I think I must be missing something. The only benefit I can think of is slightly less change making, but even with 12x per person, the table usually still needs to make change.

@BGinGA who is THE chip split guru has also recommended 120x 25c to me before.

Can someone please enlighten me?
I like lots of chips on the table so this doesn't come into play in my game terribly often as a result, but the difference between your first and second is only 8 quarters for a start might be just thin enough that there will be a lot of change making for quarters during play. The 12x 25c gives a bit more play before players might want to start getting change from the pot or other players.
 
I like lots of chips on the table so this doesn't come into play in my game terribly often as a result, but the difference between your first and second is only 8 quarters for a start might be just thin enough that there will be a lot of change making for quarters during play. The 12x 25c gives a bit more play before players might want to start getting change from the pot or other players.
Yea that’s what I thought. I guess it’s dependent on whether one prefers slightly less change making versus a bigger bank.

For me, it’s more that I like the aesthetics of a full rack more :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:. If I want less change making, I guess I rather get 200x 25c than 120.
 
Yea that’s what I thought. I guess it’s dependent on whether one prefers slightly less change making versus a bigger bank.

For me, it’s more that I like the aesthetics of a full rack more :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:. If I want less change making, I guess I rather get 200x 25c than 120.
200x quarters for a single table I feel is way too much. I played a game where they had tons of quarters, where my big stacks consisted more of them than $1 chips, the workhorse.

I understand the moar chip mentality, but I'd want at least more workhorse chips in my stack than the blind chips. Plus you increase you chip bank with more higher denominations than more quarters. But if you plan on doing 2 or more tables, 200x qrtrs is fine.
 
Generally it always good to follow the guideline of 100/200/200/80/20 for 600 chip set breakdown

For Card Mold since it so cheap you can always have 2 different set for Different Stake as you can also get to rotate you chip set for poker games as well.

Rather than having 1 set of 1000 chip that cover 5c/10c up to $1/2 i rather prefer 1 Set of 600 chip that cover from 5c/10c to 25c/25c and another Set of 600 chip that Cover 50c/$1 to $1/$2

For example I have set of 10c/50c/$1/$5/$25 chip to cover my 10c/20c up to 50c/50c game and another set of 50c/$1/$5/$25/$100 to cover 50c/$1 to $1/$2 game

200 more Chip is just $60 more in Card mold pricing
 

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