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Did you post this in the “essential edge” thread? Nice knife!

The plastic wrapping is another clue.

Yellow is a common 1k tourney ch8p, and a workhourse. I’d use the yellow pika 1000x before I’d use the pink 1k.

I love the advice here thus far, and am glad you have a cloth…. Wheh! I like the volara, but would give serious thought to the HD foam recommended here by others. I really like neoprene too, as I have a neoprene topper that gets rave reviews from my wife and our friends when we host “drunk”...

Um. Thats prob not closed cell foam, which means it will absorb liquids. Also the durability of the foam surface will not stand up to time. I’ve used open cell foam on a few projects, but it was limited and I knew it wouldn’t see much use. Also, you’ll want to glue down the foam with light...

Yup. 1/4" volara. Get it from YAT. Don't scrimp on the materials... My Fat Tire table is going strong with regular play over 11 years.

If you start at T 100 you can eliminate the 25 chips for efficiency. Otherwise they have very short usefulness in the game.

The final nugget of advice I’ll share (then I’ll bow out) is… If you build two different sets, In ten years I can guarantee you won’t regret it. If you build one set like you’ve proposed, you just might… it’s an unnecessary gamble IMHO.

Sorry @Yahooligan your logic is flawed. I routinely run a 40 entry weekly with only 800 chips, and starting stacks are 31 chips. If you’re efficient with your chip breakdowns, you can go with far fewer chips than you might think you need. You believe you need over 1200 chips for a tourney set...

Sorry, this just makes ZERO sense to me. The idea of creating a set that works for both cash and tourney is not smart. You'll wind up getting a set that doesn't work the best for either (but just ok)... to get a set that works great for both, you'll need more chips than if you just made two...

First ask yourself if you think anything you’re doing isn’t working? The structures you posted both appear decent, but I might suggest find the format that works well(best) for you and your players, and stick to that for consistency. My group tends to prefer the T25 format, but your group...

Darn, and I really need a 1000 chip case right now…. :( What can’t you live closer to WI, lol.

Hosted last night. Here's the cast of characters and my stack early on.

Last week has seen a decent upswing (albeit small sample size). I played three times and won decently each session. On Sunday I played a local bar game (tourney and cash game). I busted the tourney and played the $.25/.50 cash game. Some serious degens play this game, all chasing their losses...

And to compliment my original ronin, I snagged the newer version with G10 scales. I think the original is a much more refined piece of art, but the newer version is a workhorse. Photo of the original Ronin with micarta scales for comparison

Snagged a Spyderco Yojimbo 2. I've always wanted one, so I splurged.

I stand by my statement. It might work for some in a very limited circumstances, or professional games... but lighted raised tables (ones build decently) are by their very nature not well suited for easy take down and transport (for the casual player).

Snagged an Oknife Rubato 4 with cool translucent "Ultem" scales. So far I like the feel and action.

This is not a game I’ll be running now. So it needs to be simple.. for non chip folks to figure out. I don’t want to de@l with 39 amd 43mm racks.

blinds start at 100/200. Starting stacks are 25k T100 x 10 T500 x 10 T1k x 9 T5k x 2 My set breakdown would be: T100 x 225 T500 x 225 T1k x 250 T5k x 125 T25k x 125 $5 bounty chips x 50 We don't typically use more than 200 of each the 100 & 500 chips, but I want to have extras on hand. We...