Table Top (for hiding poker table): what designs are there? (1 Viewer)

jonstanley2009

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Seen a few "ideas", however, the idea of placing something on top of a poker table, that doesn't end up crushing/denting the foam/rail leather/felt just for some reason doesn't make sense to me.

What ways have people seen this done and why does that way work (not lead to damage)?

Ways I've seen are:

  • Some sort of block? In cup holders that holds up table top
    • Not sure if it's pegs attached to table top or special made blocks that fit perfectly in cupholder
    • Might work well? Don't know if it leaves a gap or unstable?
  • Table top "box"
    • Table top is exact same size as poker table, but has a (wood) skirt around it, to fit snug, has some sort of foam between table and table top?
    • Though, foam would eventually sink and damage table?
    • Saw some1 say, if it lays "flat", weight evenly distributed, then no worries? But how...
My bad if this a duplicate thread, seen it discussed amongst other threads, but not the specific topic
 
The top I bought from BBO for my round table has circular pegs underneath that fit into the cupholders. I’m not even sure they help support anything but the table top has never crushed the padding and I have had it for about 10 years. The top is not super heavy, I would say 20 to 30 pounds maybe. The top does have sides on it that come down over the rail padding. It’s very stable and there are no gaps.
 
Yeah that was the post I was referring too, just don't see how it wouldn't crush/damage over a period of time.
 
Yeah that was the post I was referring too, just don't see how it wouldn't crush/damage over a period of time.
There's an awful lot of inches to resist the pounds of table.

Here's a link to a datasheet for volara foam:
https://www.foambymail.com/volara-foam-sheet.html

within the datasheet, there is a statement regarding 5 psi results in 25% compression.

If you created your topper to have two 12" x 12" contact surfaces (not very big) with your playing surface... your resulting area is 12x12x2 = 288 square inches.

In order to achieve the 25% compression (not desirable), your table top would need to weight 1440 pounds.

If your topper weighed ~100 pounds, you are applying .347 psi... very little.

If we assume the foam compresses linearly, 25% compression at 5 psi and 50% compression at 14 psi... then we have ~5.6% compression at .347 psi.

If your table top foam is 1/4", then the compression with 100 lb table top is .014" inches. Not much.

If your contact surfaces were larger... the compression would be even less.
 
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Also... the surface area of a typical rail is ~1300 square inches.

The foam is different than the volara... but you get the idea.
 
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The dining topper can just sit right on top of the rail. The weight is distributed evenly around the whole table so there should be no "crushing" of the foam or other damage.

One more reason cup holders in the rail > than no cupholders in the rail.
Dining table tops will sit on the cup holders, never compressing the foam.
 
Also... the surface area of a typical rail is ~1300 square inches.

The foam is different that the volara... but you get the idea.
Actually, no, I don’t, I have no idea what any of what you just said means :LOL: :laugh:
 
One more reason cup holders in the rail > than no cupholders in the rail.
Dining table tops will sit on the cup holders, never compressing the foam.
Sheesh... I just went through a whole back of the envelope analysis on why it is perfectly fine to set the table top on the foam...

cup holders in rail <<< no cup holders in rail. :)
 
I have a solid oak 7/8" dining table cover that's been sitting on a poker table for over 4 years, haven't noticed any additional compression of the trail foam.
Try removing it and look, 4 years is a long time....

:D
 
Took my table top off for an upcoming game. Here are some pics of the pegs
 
QdhO7Mr.jpg
 
AYOOO, @Tonysquander, this is awesome. I feel you increased my IQ from 7 to 150. My hang up must of been visual. Appreciate this alot.

Thanks all for sharing knowledge
Sure thing. BTW those stubs are only 1” and the cup holders are 2 1/4” deep so they do not provide any vertical support. I guess they are only there to help prevent horizontal movement although that seems redundant with the skirt.


A8ADF58B-F15F-4A03-A9BB-F40B1025044A.jpeg


1D30174A-0BE5-43DF-9046-301352713409.jpeg

27DEF927-6FA2-42FB-A47C-19CDB07E45DC.jpeg
 
Thread necro, probably off-topic, and holy hell it's been a minute since I've been on, but: sir, that TTRPG table topper setup you have going is incredible. :wow:
Thanks. I wish I got to put to use more often.. Covid kinda killed my gaming desire.. literally. One of our DMs who was running our more recent game, passed away from Covid. Kinda soured me for a bit….
 
So my table top sits on the rail along with a bracket on each half that rests on the felt. I've had the table top on as long as 6 months, and the only think I ever noticed was a small indentation in the felt that is gone within an hour or so.
 
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A few stray added thoughts:

1) I’d affix some sort of covering on any bare wood which rests on or touches the outsides of the rail. Just something soft so there are no scuffs/splinters if the top shifts around. I’ve used a cheap faux naugahyde from Joann’s for this kind of thing.)

2) If worried about weight, it would be easy enough to create a long padded block or two to rest on the felt and give additional support to the top. I would want this to have enough surface area that it doesn’t leave an imprint.

3) For tops which are cut in half, something may be needed to hold them firmly together. Maybe hasps on the underside of the top, or else snug wooden pins at the sides which butt up together.
 

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