LabMonkey
Flush
Saturn looks very slightly green.
Picking a mold... (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Tommy
- Start date
Saturn looks very slightly green.
Forty4
Full House
The purpose of these are to be passed around, would only take one unintentional incorrect packing and the list won't matter. That's assuming the list lasts for years, multiple individuals handling the list. Even a sharpie would probably wear off over time. I would just think smarter and less chance of potential error.
Mental Nomad
Full House
Another thing... we should try to find someone who could do a good pantone color match and list the colors properly coded in several formats - including coded properly for the print method used to produce CPC inlays.
Useful for ensuring mockups and test prints are accurate, and very useful for people who wish to color-match in their inlays.
Useful for ensuring mockups and test prints are accurate, and very useful for people who wish to color-match in their inlays.
Psypher1000
Straight Flush
I tried liking this 17 times. It didn't work. Once will have to suffice.
Psypher1000
Straight Flush
Rich - out of this picture, are you able to point out the assorted reds, pinks, and lavenders for me?
RichMahogany
Straight Flush
No problem. I can get to it later today
I think it's been tried before but I think there are some issues with slight color variations with different batches of clay.
RichMahogany
Straight Flush
PM sent
atomiktoaster
Full House
I started trying to list out the colors that I already had in the various CPC chips in my collection, but it got difficult pretty quickly.
manamongkids
Full House
hey those look familiar
OP
OP
I really like the B-Mold the most for my Broken Bell chips BUT it has the smallest area for an inlay...exactly 7/8" That means there is zero room for error. An off center inlay would get into the inner circle. For that reason, I do not think I will be using the B-mold now.
courage
Full House
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I wouldn't give up on it just yet, Tommy. I think it'd be a great mold for that set, and lots of surface area on the edges. Maybe review some B mold examples to see how they turned out, but I'd be tempted to ask if they can do 1" inlays. Plenty of room for overlap on the circle, and the web site lists 1 1/16" as an option for that mold.
This has been my experience also. From what I've seen, the closer the inlay size is to the "area" the more accurate they have been.
Mental Nomad
Full House
It would seem that if the inlay were placed beyond the inner mold circle, then when the chip was pressed, the mold's rim pressing the edge of the inlay would either slide it into place, or else cause it to tip - likely causing a reject. Either way, inlays pressed into the ridge would be rare - IF that's how it works.
slisk250
Straight Flush
I'm going to use B mold on my next CPC if DiaSqu isn't available. I like the idea of having more room for inlays, however, my eye likes them small. I want to see the chip and that is the only reason FDL would be a third choice.
Poker Zombie
Royal Flush
With a theme like broken bell, it would be tough to steer away from the B mold. If you can get the art right, B mold is the only good option.
IMHO the inlay design/style would drive the mold, or visa versa - depending on your higher preference (mold or inlay). If you really wanted a bigger inlay with a nice detailed graphic, I think the FDL showcases this the best, followed by A, CSQ and HG. If you want a more old-school chip with a smaller, simpler inlay or hotstamp, than I'd go with either HHR, DSQ, B or Jockey.
Based on some of the graphics in your Broken Bell thread, I like inlay #6 on the FDL (so far
)...
Based on some of the graphics in your Broken Bell thread, I like inlay #6 on the FDL (so far
)...
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